Coil-over sadness/madness
They're actually pretty damn expensive dude. But none the less, they have been said to be a nice improvement. If you make the brackets correctly you should seriously make yourself an extra ten sets. Box em up at whatever price you want(ORW was maybe 120$/set?) and you will have a steady market over time for them. I don't think the liability issue matters though, just post pictures on r-f of your welds so you get the general consensus from welders that they look quality.
Yeah when I get mine figured out, I can just get a sheet of 1/4 steel and run a bunch through the cnc plasma in the machine shop at the school. I would imagine most people who would want these would have access to a welder? Maybe could just cut them and send them out not welded? I have a nice welder, and a friend who is a certified welder could also weld.
Hell, if I still worked at my last job, I'd have the Trumpf laser operator produce them out of scrap for free. Damn layoffs.
GB :)
if he can get the angles and everything drawn to scale i can get sets made at work. Im figuring out how to right now but without the angles is holding me back. If someone could get the drawings to scale that would be awesome.
If it's possible, it'b be really nice to have the lower brackets designed as a tab-n-slot type of assembly. It'd add strength and make assembly pretty much fool proof. I can't see where it'd be too hard to engineer that into an existing design, through computer software..
GB :)
GB :)
I agree, it seems the lower bracket position would be critical. If the coil overs were at different angles, would not be good. I won't be able to make my own brackets until I get my own coilovers. The tabs that go on the lower bracket would be hard to position without mocking it all up I think.
I still don't understand why angles are needed. You guys are overthinking it and making it much more difficult then it needs to be. Like I said, you can make them however you want. The only angles that matter are the welded ones, which are all 90*. The tab location is also important, but that needs to be obtained by mocking it up on the vehicle.
I'm not saying angles are that important. I realize they aren't unless you're looking for an exact copy of the brackets that do exist. The only important thing is that the upper bracket, once welded together, fits the upper hoop and bolts in nicely, AND the lower brackets 90degree mounting tabs are "clocked" the right direction for the coilover to fit into it correctly, which would be found out upon mock-up as KLC said.
I would like to see the lower brackets be designed with tab-n-slots for the correct clocking, so welding wouldn't be necessary for the person making them. It'b be a much more user friendly kit for everyone. If nothing else then the lowers could be tacked in place in the correct orientation once someone had the right angles for the lower shock mounts.
GB :)
I would like to see the lower brackets be designed with tab-n-slots for the correct clocking, so welding wouldn't be necessary for the person making them. It'b be a much more user friendly kit for everyone. If nothing else then the lowers could be tacked in place in the correct orientation once someone had the right angles for the lower shock mounts.
GB :)
How do places like superlift deal with the liability? Do they carry a huge amount of liability insurance, or do they just overbuild and hope nothing bad happens? What would happen if their diff drop bracket broke and the vehicle veered into a bus? They must have some sort of disclaimer, use at your own risk.
Gussets 20-52498-17 = Qty of 4
Spacers 20-833167 = Qty of 2
Total with shipping was like a whole $32.00
For that price..it wasn't worth trying to cut my own!
My goal for this is to get a set of prints made, and a set of required hardware and a part number for shocks that are necessary for this. Available info is somewhat scarce. Everyone says contact this person, or get ahold of this place. I want to get a parts list made.
The people buying the bracket kits from whoever here would have to mockup the coilover with a bolt through its top mount, and the spacers on either side of the shock, then tack the upper brackets parts together while bolted to the shock, to get the proper inside width.
GB :)
So basically they are like a washer that takes out the slide play of the top of the coil... So wouldn't the correctly sized washers work here?
Does anyone know how much play is allowable here?
This is one of those dimensions that would be necessary to build these coil mounts. If I was looking at the info available I wouldn't know whether to weld the pieces butted in one direction, or the other-if that makes sense.
Does anyone know how much play is allowable here?
This is one of those dimensions that would be necessary to build these coil mounts. If I was looking at the info available I wouldn't know whether to weld the pieces butted in one direction, or the other-if that makes sense.
So basically they are like a washer that takes out the slide play of the top of the coil... So wouldn't the correctly sized washers work here?
Does anyone know how much play is allowable here?
This is one of those dimensions that would be necessary to build these coil mounts. If I was looking at the info available I wouldn't know whether to weld the pieces butted in one direction, or the other-if that makes sense.
Does anyone know how much play is allowable here?
This is one of those dimensions that would be necessary to build these coil mounts. If I was looking at the info available I wouldn't know whether to weld the pieces butted in one direction, or the other-if that makes sense.
It's more than a washer. It's a machined spacer. Any competent machine shop in your area should be able to turn a couple for ya on their lathe for pretty cheap. This is where the dimensions of the BACK PLATE of the upper mount would need to be pretty accurate. Then after you get your coilovers and your spacers you could mock it up and tack it together. Or tack the upper mount together and get custom spacers made after taking your inside measurements from the bracket and the thickness of the coilovers upper mount. Either way.
I'm just thinking out loud here. I've been a metal worker/welder/fabricator for over 12 years but if I'm wrong on any of this then someone please correct me. I'm just doing my best with the available information I have at this time.
GB :)
Why do you NEED spacers? If your upper bracket was the right width, you wouldn't need the spacers right? Or do they act as a "moving surface" when the coil compresses?
If there is .100 play in the top/bottom of the coilover, is it causing extreme wear?
Making a spacer is not a problem, I can make my own. I am just trying to learn their purpose.
If there is .100 play in the top/bottom of the coilover, is it causing extreme wear?
Making a spacer is not a problem, I can make my own. I am just trying to learn their purpose.
You need to have a little extra width in the upper bracket. The spacers not only take up the extra width inside the bracket but I BELIEVE that the spacers also hold tight against the collar inside the coilovers mounting hole, allowing it to pivot freely. The collar slides through the coilovers upper mounting hole and over your mounting bolt. Plus with the upper bracket having a little more inside width, you're not as likely to have any binding going on between the bracket and the coilover when the suspension cycles..
CAN ANYONE WITH A COILOVER CONVERSION VERIFY THIS LINE OF THOUGHT FOR US??
GB :)
CAN ANYONE WITH A COILOVER CONVERSION VERIFY THIS LINE OF THOUGHT FOR US??
GB :)
I beleive (I could be wrong) that the spacers look more like this:

LOOK AT THE SMALLER MACHINED BUSHING.
I think it's got less to do with keeping things tight and more to do with applying pressure (when tightening the mounting bolts) where it's needed. The inner spacer that spins inside the coilovers mounting points is what has to be tightened against. Otherwise the coilover won't move freely.
So the upper mounting bracket needs to have an inside width that's wide enough to accept two of the smaller, slightly cone shaped bushings and the coilover tops.
GB :)

LOOK AT THE SMALLER MACHINED BUSHING.
I think it's got less to do with keeping things tight and more to do with applying pressure (when tightening the mounting bolts) where it's needed. The inner spacer that spins inside the coilovers mounting points is what has to be tightened against. Otherwise the coilover won't move freely.
So the upper mounting bracket needs to have an inside width that's wide enough to accept two of the smaller, slightly cone shaped bushings and the coilover tops.
GB :)
Gerald has the right idea. ORW will provide the spacers you need though. Just tell them what width of mount you have and they will get you the correct spacers.
The Fox coil-over's that ORW has for the Ranger don't even have a part number according to Nick K. from ORW. They are custom made and valved for the Ranger. They aren't just off the shelf so to speak.
The Fox coil-over's that ORW has for the Ranger don't even have a part number according to Nick K. from ORW. They are custom made and valved for the Ranger. They aren't just off the shelf so to speak.
There are also two machined aluminum spacers that are used for the top coil-over mounts. The stock shock buckets aren't flat at the top. These spacers give you a flat mounting surface as they go between the mount and the bracket.
Good thinking KLC. I'd forgotten all about that top spacer between the upper bracket and the shock tower. I'd venture to say that a person could make that spacer themselves easily enough. A piece of pipe the right diameter and length might suffice in that application.
I really wish ORW wouldn't have discontiniued their kit. There still seems to be a market for it. They could let them sit on the shelf and the orders would slowly trickle in.. WTF.
GB :)





