Transmission Problems
#1
Transmission Problems
Hey Yall,
New to the forums as I have a dilemma and wanted to get yalls opinion on it. I have a 2003 Ford Ranger XLT 4.0 V6 with 151,000 miles on it that needs a transmission and has a small oil leak by the transmission (think its the rear main seal)
- P0325 Knock Sensor
-P0735 Gear 5 retro
-P0171 Too lean B1
-P0174 Too lean B2
^This is information the shop gave me
I have a few options on shops that have looked at the Ranger and given me a few different quotes. 1. will rebuild it for 3500$ with everything and is a 3-year warranty. Option 2. will also rebuild it for 2400$ plus parts with the same 3-year warranty. Last option 3. would be 2250$ for a Reman unit and around 1000$ for labor, but wouldn't be in till late May so not a realistic option. I'm thinking my best option at this point is option 1, yet it did still seem kind've expensive. Also option 2, in my opinion, seems like a good way to get ripped off even though it is from a very reliable shop as I have no idea how much parts would be. Wanted to get others' opinions on this and see what they would do in this situation. Thanks in advance!
New to the forums as I have a dilemma and wanted to get yalls opinion on it. I have a 2003 Ford Ranger XLT 4.0 V6 with 151,000 miles on it that needs a transmission and has a small oil leak by the transmission (think its the rear main seal)
- P0325 Knock Sensor
-P0735 Gear 5 retro
-P0171 Too lean B1
-P0174 Too lean B2
^This is information the shop gave me
I have a few options on shops that have looked at the Ranger and given me a few different quotes. 1. will rebuild it for 3500$ with everything and is a 3-year warranty. Option 2. will also rebuild it for 2400$ plus parts with the same 3-year warranty. Last option 3. would be 2250$ for a Reman unit and around 1000$ for labor, but wouldn't be in till late May so not a realistic option. I'm thinking my best option at this point is option 1, yet it did still seem kind've expensive. Also option 2, in my opinion, seems like a good way to get ripped off even though it is from a very reliable shop as I have no idea how much parts would be. Wanted to get others' opinions on this and see what they would do in this situation. Thanks in advance!
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Welcome to the forum
New transmission????
P0735 Gear 5 Incorrect ratio
What are the driving issues with transmission?
This code doesn't indicate a rebuild or replacement is needed, average miles to rebuild is 250k, some go over 300k
You have a 5R55E model transmission, 2001 to 2011 4.0l Rangers all used this same version/model, also Mazda B4000 of same years
You can look up new and rebuilt models
And are there any engine driving issues?
Knock sensor code is just a broken wire, common issue on your model
Lean codes are just a vacuum leak or dirty MAF sensor, if engine seems to be running fine
As for the quotes
Seems high
Transmission removal and install should be about $700-$800 in your area, Virginia Beach
3 year warranty is pretty standard now on transmission rebuilds
Used 5R55E under 100k miles run about $900, not that its an option just looking at pricing in your area
Rebuilt $2,300-$2,700
The $3,500 seems high but probably the best deal for "all-in" price, call them out if they start adding "fluids and supplies", ALL-IN means NO EXTRA charges, if they need an extra pair of gloves or a toe-rag THEY PAY FOR IT, lol, not you
Rear main seal, if that's what it is, under $150 parts and labor, if transmission is already off
New transmission????
P0735 Gear 5 Incorrect ratio
What are the driving issues with transmission?
This code doesn't indicate a rebuild or replacement is needed, average miles to rebuild is 250k, some go over 300k
You have a 5R55E model transmission, 2001 to 2011 4.0l Rangers all used this same version/model, also Mazda B4000 of same years
You can look up new and rebuilt models
And are there any engine driving issues?
Knock sensor code is just a broken wire, common issue on your model
Lean codes are just a vacuum leak or dirty MAF sensor, if engine seems to be running fine
As for the quotes
Seems high
Transmission removal and install should be about $700-$800 in your area, Virginia Beach
3 year warranty is pretty standard now on transmission rebuilds
Used 5R55E under 100k miles run about $900, not that its an option just looking at pricing in your area
Rebuilt $2,300-$2,700
The $3,500 seems high but probably the best deal for "all-in" price, call them out if they start adding "fluids and supplies", ALL-IN means NO EXTRA charges, if they need an extra pair of gloves or a toe-rag THEY PAY FOR IT, lol, not you
Rear main seal, if that's what it is, under $150 parts and labor, if transmission is already off
#3
Thank you! That was super helpful.
As far as what's happening with the truck, it's not shifting into 5th gear at all and I was told 5th gear was completely toasted. After driving for about 10 minutes the O/D light would flash and the transmission would shift hard. However, the truck is still driving right now and honestly drives fine until it needs to shift into 5th gear or until the O/D light flashes. Also, transmission fluid is burnt.
As far as what's happening with the truck, it's not shifting into 5th gear at all and I was told 5th gear was completely toasted. After driving for about 10 minutes the O/D light would flash and the transmission would shift hard. However, the truck is still driving right now and honestly drives fine until it needs to shift into 5th gear or until the O/D light flashes. Also, transmission fluid is burnt.
#4
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Burnt ATF is caused by slipping in the transmission, can be in torque converter or in Bands(brakes) and clutches
So yes, probably a failure that needs a rebuild to repair, an electric issue, solenoids, would set different codes, so its a mechanical failure in the rotating part of transmission
Harsh/hard shifts are actually SAFER, no slipping at all, than standard operation, when computer detects an issue, sets a code, it then will enter "safe mode" which causes the harsh/hard shifts
Shutting off key/computer and restarting should restore normal operation until computer detects a problem in transmission again
OD off light is a "check transmission" light, when it flashes it means a problem was detected and usually that a code was set
To get smooth shifts the clutches and bands must slowly engage and disengage, like using the clutch pedal on a manual trans, and this is "slipping" and generates heat
The faster you engage the less "slipping" so the safer it is as far as wear and tear and heat generated, but makes for a harsh/hard shift in an automatic or manual transmission
So yes, probably a failure that needs a rebuild to repair, an electric issue, solenoids, would set different codes, so its a mechanical failure in the rotating part of transmission
Harsh/hard shifts are actually SAFER, no slipping at all, than standard operation, when computer detects an issue, sets a code, it then will enter "safe mode" which causes the harsh/hard shifts
Shutting off key/computer and restarting should restore normal operation until computer detects a problem in transmission again
OD off light is a "check transmission" light, when it flashes it means a problem was detected and usually that a code was set
To get smooth shifts the clutches and bands must slowly engage and disengage, like using the clutch pedal on a manual trans, and this is "slipping" and generates heat
The faster you engage the less "slipping" so the safer it is as far as wear and tear and heat generated, but makes for a harsh/hard shift in an automatic or manual transmission
Last edited by RonD; 04-05-2022 at 10:43 AM.
#5
#6
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Well its a 20 year old vehicle, so..........................
Only you know its condition and drive-ability
If you think it will last 5 more years(60 months) without any "major" issues, then thats a car payment of $58/month, $3,500 / 60 = $58.33/month
To recoup the investment
$60/month won't get you much for a used car these days, lol
Even if you did the math for the 3 year warranty, $3,500 / 36 = $97.22/month
Still hard to get a good car for $100/month
Only you know its condition and drive-ability
If you think it will last 5 more years(60 months) without any "major" issues, then thats a car payment of $58/month, $3,500 / 60 = $58.33/month
To recoup the investment
$60/month won't get you much for a used car these days, lol
Even if you did the math for the 3 year warranty, $3,500 / 36 = $97.22/month
Still hard to get a good car for $100/month
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