2001 Ford Ranger 4 Low Problem
#1
2001 Ford Ranger 4 Low Problem
Hi Ron, lol I know you'll see this so may as well address it to you...ha! Just saw your response on rangerdad01's thread about his xcase motor not shifting.
Anyway, my Ranger won't engage into 4 Low. It'll engage into 4 High and drives and feels like 4 High, but no 4 Low at all. No solenoid shift, no indicator light, no nothing.
Take a shot at helping me figure out my issue? I saw it mentioned the 4x4 selector switch rarely fails.
My thoughts:
-Depressing feet on clutch and brake pedal aren't the problems here
-My shift motor must be fine since I can shift into 4H
-4x4 shift interlocks must be ok since I can shift into 4H
-It's not the indicators since I have nothing from the solenoid (I'm physically not getting a shift) also I do have the indicator for the 4H
So, what do y'all think might be an issue here? Should I go behind the middle dash panel and bypass my switch to see if the switch is the problem? Or should I be targeting my 4x4 control module, and if so how can I test this module?
Or is there something else I'm overlooking?
Attached is the wiring diagram I've been using.
Thanks for the help.
Anyway, my Ranger won't engage into 4 Low. It'll engage into 4 High and drives and feels like 4 High, but no 4 Low at all. No solenoid shift, no indicator light, no nothing.
Take a shot at helping me figure out my issue? I saw it mentioned the 4x4 selector switch rarely fails.
My thoughts:
-Depressing feet on clutch and brake pedal aren't the problems here
-My shift motor must be fine since I can shift into 4H
-4x4 shift interlocks must be ok since I can shift into 4H
-It's not the indicators since I have nothing from the solenoid (I'm physically not getting a shift) also I do have the indicator for the 4H
So, what do y'all think might be an issue here? Should I go behind the middle dash panel and bypass my switch to see if the switch is the problem? Or should I be targeting my 4x4 control module, and if so how can I test this module?
Or is there something else I'm overlooking?
Attached is the wiring diagram I've been using.
Thanks for the help.
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
The 4x4CM is behind passenger kick panel in 2001 to 2003 Rangers, it was moved to behind the radio in 2004 because GEM was removed from there and to make room for the SJB behind passenger kick panel
With manual trans you need these 3 things to be true or no shift to 4low
Speedometer working and at 0 MPH, broken speedo disables 4low
Brake pedal sensor showing 12v foot on the pedal, and showing ground when foot is off the pedal(not related to brake lights)
Clutch pedal down showing neither 12v or ground at pin 12 in drawing <<< this clutch pedal switch is missing on your drawing
You may want to pull off the kick panel and pull out the 4x4cm and unplug it, then test the red/light green wire(pin 12) for ground and 12v by pressing brake pedal, and no 12v or ground with clutch pedal depressed
Pin 1 on "upper" connector should have 12v all the time so can be used to test pin 12 for Ground, and pin 2 on "lower" connector is full time ground for 12v test
You can also test the switch, this is from a member here:
3.86v and 3,870 ohms for 2wd
2.94v and 1,090 ohms for 4wd high
1.76v and 357 ohms for 4wd low
So based on the diagram, with connectors unplugged, you can use an ohm meter from pin 1 on "lower" connector, to pin 5 on "upper" connector and should see the above OHMs when switch is in its 3 positions, no need to test voltages, and OHMs are not exact, they are "ballpark" numbers
Key can be off for all tests
With manual trans you need these 3 things to be true or no shift to 4low
Speedometer working and at 0 MPH, broken speedo disables 4low
Brake pedal sensor showing 12v foot on the pedal, and showing ground when foot is off the pedal(not related to brake lights)
Clutch pedal down showing neither 12v or ground at pin 12 in drawing <<< this clutch pedal switch is missing on your drawing
You may want to pull off the kick panel and pull out the 4x4cm and unplug it, then test the red/light green wire(pin 12) for ground and 12v by pressing brake pedal, and no 12v or ground with clutch pedal depressed
Pin 1 on "upper" connector should have 12v all the time so can be used to test pin 12 for Ground, and pin 2 on "lower" connector is full time ground for 12v test
You can also test the switch, this is from a member here:
3.86v and 3,870 ohms for 2wd
2.94v and 1,090 ohms for 4wd high
1.76v and 357 ohms for 4wd low
So based on the diagram, with connectors unplugged, you can use an ohm meter from pin 1 on "lower" connector, to pin 5 on "upper" connector and should see the above OHMs when switch is in its 3 positions, no need to test voltages, and OHMs are not exact, they are "ballpark" numbers
Key can be off for all tests
The following users liked this post:
DILLARD000 (10-26-2020)
#3
Thanks for the input Ron I appreciate it.
So I've got an interesting situation now!! Just got back from work and I thought for the heck of it I'd try to put the truck into 4 Low. Well much to my surprise, it went into 4L! NOW it won't go out of 4L lol!!
Now I've got some fire under me to fix it lol..... Time to start figuring this out!
So I've got an interesting situation now!! Just got back from work and I thought for the heck of it I'd try to put the truck into 4 Low. Well much to my surprise, it went into 4L! NOW it won't go out of 4L lol!!
Now I've got some fire under me to fix it lol..... Time to start figuring this out!
#4
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
#5
I知 going to start digging into in a few minutes lol.
#6
Weird. Wonder if it値l happen again lol...
#7
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
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