Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

Can you drive with 4WD on dry pavement?

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Old 11-14-2022
JusrAnotherMerican's Avatar
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Can you drive with 4WD on dry pavement?

I have a 1987 2.3L manual with 4WD. The 4WD is manual along with manual hubs. I've heard it's very bad to drive in 4x4 on dry pavement because the high-traction can cause binding and other issues in the differentials/transmission. Does this apply to my vehicle or just newer vehicles with part-time 4WD? Winter is coming and sometimes the roads are dry but with icy patches here and there. I know 4x4 won't help handling but it will at least keep my tires from spinning. Would it be bad to drive with 4x4 ON if the pavement is mostly dry?

Thanks!
 
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Old 11-14-2022
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4WD is different than AWD(all wheel drive)

4WD means front wheels and rear wheels are connected directly together in the transfer case, front and rear axles split the power 50/50

AWD uses a fluid coupler, so axles can spin at different RPMs, power is split 30/70, so not 4WD, its AWD

4WD should not be used on any high traction surfaces, i.e. dry pavement, and no reason for it to be used
If all your tires are the same size and EXACTLY the same air pressure, then it might not bind up much, but it will put stress on the front axles chain drive and gears in the transfer case and for no good reason, as said, lol

You can leave the manual hubs locked all the time and then shift from 2WD to 4high and back while driving, as needed, doesn't hurt a thing, don't have to stop as long as front hubs are already locked, because front chain drive in transfer case is already spinning at the same RPMs as rear driveshaft, so no grinding to match RPMs
You must(should) stop to shift to 4low
 
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Old 11-14-2022
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IIRC, those 80's 4WD systems also require you to drive in reverse for 10 feet to disengage 4WD.
 
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Old 11-15-2022
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Originally Posted by Ranger480
IIRC, those 80's 4WD systems also require you to drive in reverse for 10 feet to disengage 4WD.
80's up to 1997

Ford used "Automatic" locking hubs in those years
These were torque activated
When in 2WD the transfer case chain drive for front axle was disengaged so no torque at the axle shafts in the front Auto hubs and they stayed unlocked

When 4WD was selected, the chain drive was engaged which caused the axle shafts to apply torque in the front hubs to turn the wheels, this caused the hubs to lock
Driving in Reverse in 4WD the hubs remained locked because torque/power was still being applied from axles to wheels/hubs

When you shift to 2WD again the chain drive is disengaged and axles no longer applied torque to the front wheels/hubs, and this would "usually" unLock both hubs automatically because wheels turned but axles had no power
BUT............sometimes it didn't, one or both would "stick" and stay locked, backing up in 2WD would force them to unLock because of the way they auto locked
 
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Old 11-15-2022
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The OP said he has manual locking hubs. Yes, you should not drive on dry pavement in 4WD with hubs locked unless you don't mind breaking something in the drive train. My guess is the locking hub would be the first to go unless something else is near failure.

I once drove all the way to Kansas from CA in 4WD because I could not shift out of 4WD. The shift fork had broken. Most of it was going straight and I was careful not to turn very sharp when I had to turn. When I got to KS, I removed the front driveshaft and turning got better.
 
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