Alternator Compatibility
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Alternator Compatibility
I know this may sound stupid guys but I have a 92 Ranger 2.3l and my alternator is going bad and I don't want to shell out the $140 for a new one so I just wanna yank one off a car from the junkyard. I tried searching on pullapart.com to see what all would match but for some reason a 2.3l isn't showing up as an engine option. Do 2.9/3.0/4.0 alternators match up? I know its a 95 amp aalternator. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
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Joined: Jul 2016
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From: BC Canada
The 130 amp is simply bigger then the 95 amp, but the mounts are the same.
Just make sure your connections and pulleys match and you should be good to go.
AFAIK, they are all the same in the Ranger trucks (Mazda B series trucks as well starting at B 2300)
Get the newest one you can find with low miles at the junk yard, undue the Torx head screws holding the regulator/brush assembly in place and check the copper slip rings on the armature.
If they're worn, it's junk.
You can get kits from eBay to rebuild them, but it's not easy.
This is the kit I got for mine, my diodes were OK, but my slip rings and bearing were shot.
It's not an easy thing to get apart, it required a big soldering gun and patience.
The keeper plate has three small machine screws that held the bearing in place nearest the pulley.
No matter how carful I was with heat and penetrating oil 2 of the 3 screws twisted off.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-3G-ALTE...FSt2y-&vxp=mtr
Just make sure your connections and pulleys match and you should be good to go.
AFAIK, they are all the same in the Ranger trucks (Mazda B series trucks as well starting at B 2300)
Get the newest one you can find with low miles at the junk yard, undue the Torx head screws holding the regulator/brush assembly in place and check the copper slip rings on the armature.
If they're worn, it's junk.
You can get kits from eBay to rebuild them, but it's not easy.
This is the kit I got for mine, my diodes were OK, but my slip rings and bearing were shot.
It's not an easy thing to get apart, it required a big soldering gun and patience.
The keeper plate has three small machine screws that held the bearing in place nearest the pulley.
No matter how carful I was with heat and penetrating oil 2 of the 3 screws twisted off.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-3G-ALTE...FSt2y-&vxp=mtr
Last edited by Jeff R 1; Sep 22, 2017 at 02:25 PM.
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Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 13
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The 130 amp is simply bigger then the 95 amp, but the mounts are the same.
Just make sure your connections and pulleys match and you should be good to go.
AFAIK, they are all the same in the Ranger trucks (Mazda B series trucks as well starting at B 2300)
Get the newest one you can find with low miles at the junk yard, undue the Torx head screws holding the regulator/brush assembly in place and check the copper slip rings on the armature.
If they're worn, it's junk.
You can get kits from eBay to rebuild them, but it's not easy.
This is the kit I got for mine, my diodes were OK, but my slip rings and bearing were shot.
It's not an easy thing to get apart, it required a big soldering gun and patience.
The keeper plate has three small machine screws that held the bearing in place nearest the pulley.
No matter how carful I was with heat and penetrating oil 2 of the 3 screws twisted off.
FORD 3G ALTERNATOR repair kit E and F series,EXPEDITION,EXPLORER,MUSTANG | eBay
Just make sure your connections and pulleys match and you should be good to go.
AFAIK, they are all the same in the Ranger trucks (Mazda B series trucks as well starting at B 2300)
Get the newest one you can find with low miles at the junk yard, undue the Torx head screws holding the regulator/brush assembly in place and check the copper slip rings on the armature.
If they're worn, it's junk.
You can get kits from eBay to rebuild them, but it's not easy.
This is the kit I got for mine, my diodes were OK, but my slip rings and bearing were shot.
It's not an easy thing to get apart, it required a big soldering gun and patience.
The keeper plate has three small machine screws that held the bearing in place nearest the pulley.
No matter how carful I was with heat and penetrating oil 2 of the 3 screws twisted off.
FORD 3G ALTERNATOR repair kit E and F series,EXPEDITION,EXPLORER,MUSTANG | eBay
My buddy has an Explorer (5 speed!) that he runs out at our local "dirt track" (farmers field he quit doing hay on lol) that I've been secretly hoping he blows up so I can get the rear end and some other parts off of it for cheap/free. Unfortunately for me it just keeps trucking along.
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Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 2,023
Likes: 44
From: BC Canada
Mulling around at Rock Auto, it seems that all the Bronco's after 1993 appear to use the same alternator with the 3 bolt mount. Check it out for your self.
Plugs appear to be the same, Rock Auto shows the model numbers to be the same as well.
I would assume that other Rangers and Explorers will work too as long as your not getting into single V belt territory and different mounts.
Ha Ha... Blows UP !
Funny how the abused ones just seem to keep going....
Plugs appear to be the same, Rock Auto shows the model numbers to be the same as well.
I would assume that other Rangers and Explorers will work too as long as your not getting into single V belt territory and different mounts.
Ha Ha... Blows UP !
Funny how the abused ones just seem to keep going....
I don't think 2.9l will work
But 1992 to 1997 from any other Ranger will, also these
(1993-92) Ford Aerostar 4.0L
(1996-93) Ford Bronco 5.0L, 5.8L
(1996-93) Ford E Series Van 5.0L, 5.8L
(1994-91) Ford Explorer 4.0L
(1997-93) Ford F Series Pickup 5.0L, 5.8L
(1997-92) Ford Ranger 2.3L, 3.0L, 4.0L
(1994-91) Mazda Navajo 4.0L
(1999-94) Mazda Pickup 2.3L, 2.5L, 3.0L, 4.0L
As Jeff said the 2 hole higher AMP will also fit
I always get alternators from wrecking yards, doing my bit to save the planet and recycling when I can.
Thats the Public slant, lol, real story is I am cheap, because I have been doing it since before it was politically correct to do so
But 1992 to 1997 from any other Ranger will, also these
(1993-92) Ford Aerostar 4.0L
(1996-93) Ford Bronco 5.0L, 5.8L
(1996-93) Ford E Series Van 5.0L, 5.8L
(1994-91) Ford Explorer 4.0L
(1997-93) Ford F Series Pickup 5.0L, 5.8L
(1997-92) Ford Ranger 2.3L, 3.0L, 4.0L
(1994-91) Mazda Navajo 4.0L
(1999-94) Mazda Pickup 2.3L, 2.5L, 3.0L, 4.0L
As Jeff said the 2 hole higher AMP will also fit
I always get alternators from wrecking yards, doing my bit to save the planet and recycling when I can.
Thats the Public slant, lol, real story is I am cheap, because I have been doing it since before it was politically correct to do so
Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 2,023
Likes: 44
From: BC Canada
Me too, cheap "and" broke...
Some/most of the time.
I won't even go to the wrecking yard, too expensive.
I'll struggle through replacing new bits and only spend 20 bucks.
And yeah, the 2.9 liter from 1992 has totally different mounts.
The electrical connections are different too.
Some/most of the time.
I won't even go to the wrecking yard, too expensive.
I'll struggle through replacing new bits and only spend 20 bucks.
And yeah, the 2.9 liter from 1992 has totally different mounts.
The electrical connections are different too.
Last edited by Jeff R 1; Sep 23, 2017 at 02:31 PM.
Buy a volt meter
The AC draws no electric power, well not much.
AC compressor does load engine, so computer is programmed to bump up idle RPMs when AC is turned on, if idle is 700 in park/neutral AC off, then it should go up to 750 when AC is turned on.
This increase in RPM is done by the computer using the IAC(idle air control) Valve
The computer uses the IAC Valve to set cold engine idle, 1,100+, and then lower the idle as engine warms up to target warm idle of 700 or so
So your IAC Valve could be sticking and needs to be cleaned
Look here: How to: IAC valve cleaning thread (w/pics) | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations
Not much to it, 2 bolts and a little elbow grease
The AC draws no electric power, well not much.
AC compressor does load engine, so computer is programmed to bump up idle RPMs when AC is turned on, if idle is 700 in park/neutral AC off, then it should go up to 750 when AC is turned on.
This increase in RPM is done by the computer using the IAC(idle air control) Valve
The computer uses the IAC Valve to set cold engine idle, 1,100+, and then lower the idle as engine warms up to target warm idle of 700 or so
So your IAC Valve could be sticking and needs to be cleaned
Look here: How to: IAC valve cleaning thread (w/pics) | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations
Not much to it, 2 bolts and a little elbow grease
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