E-Fan + 160 t-stat + AC always on = over heating
#26
06-28-2008
Bob, you have no clue about what your talking about.
I've personally built and tested entire cooling systems in a 100% controlled & measured environment. And nearly every one was for Ford development too. I'm tellin ya, the fluid is moving to quickly to cool off.
Bob, your simply being argumentative and basing your thoughts on ignorance.
Later, Rich
I've personally built and tested entire cooling systems in a 100% controlled & measured environment. And nearly every one was for Ford development too. I'm tellin ya, the fluid is moving to quickly to cool off.
Bob, your simply being argumentative and basing your thoughts on ignorance.
Later, Rich
#27
06-28-2008
Bob, you have no clue about what your talking about.
I've personally built and tested entire cooling systems in a 100% controlled & measured environment. And nearly every one was for Ford development too. I'm tellin ya, the fluid is moving to quickly to cool off.
Bob, your simply being argumentative and basing your thoughts on ignorance.
Later, Rich
I've personally built and tested entire cooling systems in a 100% controlled & measured environment. And nearly every one was for Ford development too. I'm tellin ya, the fluid is moving to quickly to cool off.
Bob, your simply being argumentative and basing your thoughts on ignorance.
Later, Rich
Sorry Rich, your wrong, lets see a link to something that backs you up!!
#29
06-28-2008
Yes, and this time he is dead wrong! He will never find anything to back him up!!! I don't care if he has built and tested cooling systems for every vehicle made, he doesn't know how a thermostat is supposed to work!!
#31
06-28-2008
If you passed the ASE test, you should understand what I'm trying to say about the thermostat, and you would understand why Rich is wrong!!
So, for your benefit, Rich's benefit, and D's benefit, I found a "basic" description of how a cooling system works:
http://www.familycar.com/Classroom/CoolingSystem.htm
#32
06-28-2008
Join Date: Oct 2007
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strongly disagree. 120 is not unheard of here and, during our Monsoon season in July-Sep., we experience a decent level of humidity. It sucks, and it's hard on everything -- but overheating has NOT been a problem for anyone that I know of.
#33
06-28-2008
Unregistered User
Posts: n/a
Mark, at least I don't have a problem admitting I'm wrong about something!!
If you passed the ASE test, you should understand what I'm trying to say about the thermostat, and you would understand why Rich is wrong!!
So, for your benefit, Rich's benefit, and D's benefit, I found a "basic" description of how a cooling system works:
http://www.familycar.com/Classroom/CoolingSystem.htm
If you passed the ASE test, you should understand what I'm trying to say about the thermostat, and you would understand why Rich is wrong!!
So, for your benefit, Rich's benefit, and D's benefit, I found a "basic" description of how a cooling system works:
http://www.familycar.com/Classroom/CoolingSystem.htm
not everything on the internet is true. and yes i passed that part of the ASE test, would you like my cert number?
moderators i beg you to act on this member.
your an idiot and if i have to get banned like maurice then so be it! you have no clue as rich stated in a above post. again, please go away.
Last edited by 04 EDGE; 06-28-2008 at 08:02 PM.
#35
06-29-2008
Run a 50/50 mix of water/antifreeze.
The properties of antifreeze enable it to transfer the heat from the engine to the radiator better than plain water.
#37
06-29-2008
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: McAllen, TEXAS
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#38
06-29-2008
Get a real controller, don't just put it on the switch. Get yourself a SPAL controller. Maurice had one on his Ranger with the Taurus efan and it ran awsome. You can set the SPAL to turn on slowly at a lower temp and then full speed at another temp.
www.spalusa.com
www.spalusa.com
#39
07-02-2008
Bob Bob Bob...
I'm not dead wrong. I'm right. As far as me not knowing how t-stats work..
OK.. my resume on the subject:
As part of all that 6 years of OEM cooling & FEAD development, I had to personally go to the stant factory and engineering facility in Walthham Mass. (sp?) It was the entire week before Christmas 1994. A nor-easter blew in 3hrs after I left Boston on the Fri before the holiday weekend. Check the weather records if you like.
I had review our Ford cougar project with them, learn how stats are made, how they function, how they are engineered, how they are calibrated, and what failure modes occur.
How's the crow taste bob?
Just for the sake of others who might be reading..
An OEM spaced t-stat is open only when the water temp heats up & expands the wax inside of a stats "cup". It's usually a brass or soft metal cup on the engine side. The wax is 100% sealed and as it expands it can't escape. So it pushes against a tapered pin. The pin pushes open the plate which allows coolant to flow into or in some cases from the radiator. The wax cools... and the stat closes.
The amount of opening a stat does is usually all the way because there is a spring pressure pushing against the expanding wax. They/we want it to operate as an all or nothing situation because of the very point I've made. You don't want a constant flow through the rad. The rads capacity and the coolants volume is just not enough by itself. We need the coolant to reside in the rad for at least 15 seconds at hwy speeds so it'll cool.
Now the heat migrating to the stat is relative to many other things that are taking place. Three major ones:
1) Exhaust efficiency (40% of the heat goes out the exhaust)
2) Engine load (completely relative to the car/truck/situation)
3) Internal coolant by-pass design. (some flow through the heater core 100% of the time.. others don't)
A **typical** family car running down the hwy at 55mph will have it's stat open only about 30-50% of the time in the summer. During the winter w/the heater on full blast it can take up to 2 minutes in between openings. And in sub zero temps it may not even open. That's right.. the heater core and exhaust alone can be enough to cool a lightly loaded engine in very cold temps!
There is a whole science to stats and even a secret recipe as to what the wax has in it.
Me not knowing stats... ok Bob you win. Your arrogance heaped on top of ignorance combined with the ability to do internet searching makes you the top dog when it comes to automotive cooling knowledge.
You win.
Rich
#40
07-02-2008
Bob Bob Bob...
I'm not dead wrong. I'm right. As far as me not knowing how t-stats work..
OK.. my resume on the subject:
As part of all that 6 years of OEM cooling & FEAD development, I had to personally go to the stant factory and engineering facility in Walthham Mass. (sp?) It was the entire week before Christmas 1994. A nor-easter blew in 3hrs after I left Boston on the Fri before the holiday weekend. Check the weather records if you like.
I had review our Ford cougar project with them, learn how stats are made, how they function, how they are engineered, how they are calibrated, and what failure modes occur.
How's the crow taste bob?
Just for the sake of others who might be reading..
An OEM spaced t-stat is open only when the water temp heats up & expands the wax inside of a stats "cup". It's usually a brass or soft metal cup on the engine side. The wax is 100% sealed and as it expands it can't escape. So it pushes against a tapered pin. The pin pushes open the plate which allows coolant to flow into or in some cases from the radiator. The wax cools... and the stat closes.
The amount of opening a stat does is usually all the way because there is a spring pressure pushing against the expanding wax. They/we want it to operate as an all or nothing situation because of the very point I've made. You don't want a constant flow through the rad. The rads capacity and the coolants volume is just not enough by itself. We need the coolant to reside in the rad for at least 15 seconds at hwy speeds so it'll cool.
Now the heat migrating to the stat is relative to many other things that are taking place. Three major ones:
1) Exhaust efficiency (40% of the heat goes out the exhaust)
2) Engine load (completely relative to the car/truck/situation)
3) Internal coolant by-pass design. (some flow through the heater core 100% of the time.. others don't)
A **typical** family car running down the hwy at 55mph will have it's stat open only about 30-50% of the time in the summer. During the winter w/the heater on full blast it can take up to 2 minutes in between openings. And in sub zero temps it may not even open. That's right.. the heater core and exhaust alone can be enough to cool a lightly loaded engine in very cold temps!
There is a whole science to stats and even a secret recipe as to what the wax has in it.
Me not knowing stats... ok Bob you win. Your arrogance heaped on top of ignorance combined with the ability to do internet searching makes you the top dog when it comes to automotive cooling knowledge.
You win.
Rich
I'm not dead wrong. I'm right. As far as me not knowing how t-stats work..
OK.. my resume on the subject:
As part of all that 6 years of OEM cooling & FEAD development, I had to personally go to the stant factory and engineering facility in Walthham Mass. (sp?) It was the entire week before Christmas 1994. A nor-easter blew in 3hrs after I left Boston on the Fri before the holiday weekend. Check the weather records if you like.
I had review our Ford cougar project with them, learn how stats are made, how they function, how they are engineered, how they are calibrated, and what failure modes occur.
How's the crow taste bob?
Just for the sake of others who might be reading..
An OEM spaced t-stat is open only when the water temp heats up & expands the wax inside of a stats "cup". It's usually a brass or soft metal cup on the engine side. The wax is 100% sealed and as it expands it can't escape. So it pushes against a tapered pin. The pin pushes open the plate which allows coolant to flow into or in some cases from the radiator. The wax cools... and the stat closes.
The amount of opening a stat does is usually all the way because there is a spring pressure pushing against the expanding wax. They/we want it to operate as an all or nothing situation because of the very point I've made. You don't want a constant flow through the rad. The rads capacity and the coolants volume is just not enough by itself. We need the coolant to reside in the rad for at least 15 seconds at hwy speeds so it'll cool.
Now the heat migrating to the stat is relative to many other things that are taking place. Three major ones:
1) Exhaust efficiency (40% of the heat goes out the exhaust)
2) Engine load (completely relative to the car/truck/situation)
3) Internal coolant by-pass design. (some flow through the heater core 100% of the time.. others don't)
A **typical** family car running down the hwy at 55mph will have it's stat open only about 30-50% of the time in the summer. During the winter w/the heater on full blast it can take up to 2 minutes in between openings. And in sub zero temps it may not even open. That's right.. the heater core and exhaust alone can be enough to cool a lightly loaded engine in very cold temps!
There is a whole science to stats and even a secret recipe as to what the wax has in it.
Me not knowing stats... ok Bob you win. Your arrogance heaped on top of ignorance combined with the ability to do internet searching makes you the top dog when it comes to automotive cooling knowledge.
You win.
Rich
Rich, you provided absolutely nothing that says a thermostat has to close to allow the coolant in the radiator to cool!!!!!
Just seeing what you have done to your truck tells me what kind of engineer you are!!!! You weren't even aware that running a battery voltage of 12.3V
at idle would run your battery dead. You didn't know that e-fans didn't have enough air pull for a 4 core radiator.....and you are an EXPERT???????
Did Ford fire the firm you work for?
So, I'm still waiting on something besides your lip music!!!!
At least I provided information from Stant that backs up my point!
Last edited by Takeda; 07-02-2008 at 10:45 AM.
#41
07-02-2008
Unregistered User
Posts: n/a
from wikianswers
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_does_a...hermostat_work
another link for bob from a simple search
http://www.familycar.com/Classroom/C...#The_Radiator_
heres a small part of that link.
"There is a mistaken belief by some people that if they remove the thermostat, they will be able to solve hard to find overheating problems. This couldn't be further from the truth. Removing the thermostat will allow uncontrolled circulation of the coolant throughout the system. It is possible for the coolant to move so fast, that it will not be properly cooled as it races through the radiator, so the engine can run even hotter than before under certain conditions. Other times, the engine will never reach its operating temperature. On computer controlled vehicles, the computer monitors engine temperatures and regulates fuel usage based on that temperature. If the engine never reaches operating temperatures, fuel economy and performance will suffer considerably."
i wish closed minded people like bob would open there eyes to the real world.
the one sentence reply you posted from stant was useless bob. again your an idiot.
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_does_a...hermostat_work
another link for bob from a simple search
http://www.familycar.com/Classroom/C...#The_Radiator_
heres a small part of that link.
"There is a mistaken belief by some people that if they remove the thermostat, they will be able to solve hard to find overheating problems. This couldn't be further from the truth. Removing the thermostat will allow uncontrolled circulation of the coolant throughout the system. It is possible for the coolant to move so fast, that it will not be properly cooled as it races through the radiator, so the engine can run even hotter than before under certain conditions. Other times, the engine will never reach its operating temperature. On computer controlled vehicles, the computer monitors engine temperatures and regulates fuel usage based on that temperature. If the engine never reaches operating temperatures, fuel economy and performance will suffer considerably."
i wish closed minded people like bob would open there eyes to the real world.
the one sentence reply you posted from stant was useless bob. again your an idiot.
#42
07-02-2008
Any retard with half a brain knows that if the thermostat sticks open that eventually the ENTIRE system will be at the same temp.
I can't believe Maurice got banned over some dumb a$$ like Takeda. I don't see how the mods take up for stupidity; do they want HORRIBLY WRONG information posted on here (I couldn't believe they would since this is susposed to be a tech site, I guess they don't give a crap).
better watch out, Bob will get you banned like Maurice.
I can't believe Maurice got banned over some dumb a$$ like Takeda. I don't see how the mods take up for stupidity; do they want HORRIBLY WRONG information posted on here (I couldn't believe they would since this is susposed to be a tech site, I guess they don't give a crap).
Originally Posted by 04 EDGE
again your an idiot
#43
07-02-2008
from wikianswers
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_does_a...hermostat_work
another link for bob from a simple search
http://www.familycar.com/Classroom/C...#The_Radiator_
heres a small part of that link.
"There is a mistaken belief by some people that if they remove the thermostat, they will be able to solve hard to find overheating problems. This couldn't be further from the truth. Removing the thermostat will allow uncontrolled circulation of the coolant throughout the system. It is possible for the coolant to move so fast, that it will not be properly cooled as it races through the radiator, so the engine can run even hotter than before under certain conditions. Other times, the engine will never reach its operating temperature. On computer controlled vehicles, the computer monitors engine temperatures and regulates fuel usage based on that temperature. If the engine never reaches operating temperatures, fuel economy and performance will suffer considerably."
i wish closed minded people like bob would open there eyes to the real world.
the one sentence reply you posted from stant was useless bob. again your an idiot.
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_does_a...hermostat_work
another link for bob from a simple search
http://www.familycar.com/Classroom/C...#The_Radiator_
heres a small part of that link.
"There is a mistaken belief by some people that if they remove the thermostat, they will be able to solve hard to find overheating problems. This couldn't be further from the truth. Removing the thermostat will allow uncontrolled circulation of the coolant throughout the system. It is possible for the coolant to move so fast, that it will not be properly cooled as it races through the radiator, so the engine can run even hotter than before under certain conditions. Other times, the engine will never reach its operating temperature. On computer controlled vehicles, the computer monitors engine temperatures and regulates fuel usage based on that temperature. If the engine never reaches operating temperatures, fuel economy and performance will suffer considerably."
i wish closed minded people like bob would open there eyes to the real world.
the one sentence reply you posted from stant was useless bob. again your an idiot.
Again Mark, absolutely NOTHING about a thermostat having to close so the coolant can cool in the radiator!!!
The answer from Stant applied directly that there was no cooling system that had to have the thermostat close to allow the coolant to cool in the radiator!!!
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