02' 2.3lPerformed the speed control start-up diagnostic, got 2 flashes after a pause which means: "Brake pedal position (BPP) switch is defective, circuit is defective, or brake pedal is applied; clutch pedal position (CPP) switch is defective, circuit is defective, or clutch pedal is applied."
I've replaced the Brake Light Sensor, the Brake Fluid Pressure Sensor (aka Cruise Control Release Switch), and the Clutch Pedal Safety Sensor. Nothing has changed so far, and still get 2 flashes after a pause.

What should I be looking into from here?

 

The Brake pedal switch is actually 2 switches in one housing, brake light switch and a brake pedal position sensor

In the diagram below you can see fuse 9 is used for the sensor
But there are two connections for Cruise module, so redundant setup for safety, black/yellow wire, 12v on/off and tan/blue wire GROUND or 12volt

When brake pedal is up the position sensor(BPP) is GROUNDED, not just 0volts, this ground passes thru the clutch switch(manual trans) and then to the cruise module, so if clutch pedal is pressed down Ground goes away and cruise deactivates
Or if this wire changes to 12v it deactivates cruise as well

The Deactivater switch is the back up, its 0volts or 12volts to deactivate

So I would test tan/blue wire at the cruise module, key off, to see if its a GROUND, it should be or there is a problem with wiring or switch

 

I really appreciate your response here. I’ve been out of town for work so last night was the first time I was able to look into what you suggested.

I do have a multimeter, but unfortunately I feel I might be a little out of my depth. I took a photo of the cable that is connect to the cruise control module. Is this what you were suggesting I look at?





If so, could you clarify how I would test for proper ground operation? Would I need something like a paper clip and alligator clips to test the blue/tan wire?

 

Yes, that looks right, same wire colors, pin 1 is at the bottom of picture

 

I’ll do my best to explain what I did and see if you make make better sense of it.

I set the negative lead on the #10 pink wire (ground) and positive on #4 Blue/Tan wire.

I really wasn’t seeing much of any change, pushing the brake pedal or clutch was not affecting the meter, always reading 0 for resistance, not showing any voltage.

 

Key off
Did you test #10 with ohm meter to a body or chassis ground, 0 ohms

#4 should also be 0 ohms to a ground with clutch and brake pedal not being touched, if not then ground is not good at brake pedal switch

#7 grey/yellow should be 12v with key on

 

#10 reads 1.3, then 30 with brake pressed.

#7 reads 11.5V

#4 just reads OL no matter what I do. I’ve already replaced the brake pedal switch and all the lights are working, what would I look at next?

 

I have continuity on the Tan/BL wire from servo to Clutch pedal position switch

I have continuity on the red/gr wire from clutch to brake pedal position switch (all 3 positions on the brake pedal switch).

I have continuity on the brown wire from BPPS to the deactivator switch.

All 3 of these switches have been replaced and are brand new.

 

Sorry, just out of ideas on what to test

 

I’m testing the voltage on the brown wire that goes into the deactivator switch. It’s reading 12v at all times, regardless of brake, clutch, or key position.

From what I understand, that means it’s constantly getting a signal to deactivate, does this help at all?

 

Well I figured out the issue

after some more testing, I noticed that I was getting continuity from servo to clutch, but not servo to brake.

I removed the clutch switch and retested, and I’m getting continuity now. I’m also getting 0 ohms at the servo.

Basically, I think I installed the new clutch switch incorrectly. It works when removed from the shafted but not while inserted, the spring seems to be too depressed when I put it in. A couple more YouTube videos should fix this. Thanks for all your help!