BorgWarner 1354

I wanna say the 1350 is in Explorers with the 5.0, but I could be wrong..

 

Doh! -1354.. I think you're right. Although I think the -1350 was on earlier (80's) Rangers.

 

Getting a set of these also...

http://www.staunproducts.com/beadlock.php

 

Dude I saw those at the last couple Off Road shows here this month, they are bad ***! Let us know how it works for ya!

Your right.. I just looked, 80's Rangers did have the 1350.

The 1354 came about in 90'. From 90-93 you had an option 1350 or 1354 and in 94 they went all to 1354, though the option for manual or electric shift was available...

 

id skip the staun beadlocks seeing as they are about the same price as that of beadlocked rims. might as well have stazworks make you a set of custom double bead locks. they run about 225 a rim i think

 

staun are 4 for 200

 

900 vs 200... hmmmm...

 

wow i must have read the thread on pirate wrong then i could of sworn they were going for like 175 each. well nevermind then carry on.

 

I may be wrong as well but last time i priced them on the internet I thought I remembered 4 for 200 ish.

thats the only reason I wanted them as well. cheap double beadlocks...

 

staun beadlocks

roughly 195 a peice, for that price youd be better off getting the 2 peice rims made and you can mount your own tires

 

Staun beadlocks will not affect the streetability or balancing of the tires. And they are double beadlocks.

But then again i can get a set of weld-on outside beadlocks for 300~ shipped.

 

I thought beadlocks weren't street-legal?

 

some are such as stock h1 rims, 12 bolt humvee rims, hutchinson and a select few others

 

If you research it, they arn't actually "illegal". It's a grey area in DOT laws. The wheel itself has to be DOT stamped, which mine are. Go on pirate4x4.com and search for it.

Correction, weld on outer beadlocks 280 shipped minus hardware, going this route seeing as the staun beadlocks are 180 a peice.

 

The DOT stamping on the wheels is where it's weird. Most companies that manufacture and sell beadlocks do not have the wheels DOT stamped, to avoid any liability that could possibly point back to them and the beadlocks. But then some beadlocks are stamped, and some rims, with no centers and no beads, are DOT stamped, even though you cannot bolt it on a truck or mount a tire on it. It's confusing, i think a vendor on pirate has a 50$ reward if you can actually find a law that says beadlocks are illegal.

 

looks good bro.. power on.. just noticed a damn crack in my front crossmember where the ttb bracket bolts on.... i guess i'll be doing mine soon.. still up in the air on ttb or solid... i was given a ttb50 out of a 97' f-250.... i know it's weird but it will **** off my jeep buddies who say it won't work.. 39.5's are hard on parts i guess... snapped the 1350 t-case in reverse pulling a superduty back onto the road..dammitt...just threw another one in for now but i'm thinking all superduty trans/t-case... it's wide but i need strong stuff...the dana 50 front solid out of a 99'up superduty (once narrowed) is looking good too.. big brakes, big shafts, big u-joints,etc....lol and keep the pics up..

 

also on the beadlocks, go with the internal stuff.. my jeep guys are always complaining about bolts breaking, not able to remove do to damage, expensive,balance probs.... the internal works better anyhow and can go from your $50 bent wheel into the new $50 wheel, try that with conventional beadlocks...lol

 

This is just a suggestion... or maybe a request to the Moderators.

There is a lot of good information in this thread from the Original poster and from other members, but there is also a lot of clutter. This should definitely be a sticky, or perhaps a how-to, considering it is pretty step-by-step, and 034x4 has been pretty consistent in posting parts, numbers, and where he got things from.

034x4, I know you already said this before, but considering this thread is 13 pages long, I can't find it. Where are you getting your front driveshaft from? Oh yeah, and hurry up and finish that ****

 

When i get the front finished, the tranny crossmember finished, i'll make some measurements, then give High angle driveline a call.

And don't worry, i don't think i had mentioned that either.

 

I'm glad it's helpin ya'll out so much, I'm trying to get everystep either in text and hopefully with pictures too. Because no one else has hardly any SAS info or threads on here.

I'll have to get a mod to cut it down for me when I finish.

 

Here's some pics, got them, and the new shackles (factory waggy bushing are 2.5", alcan's are 3") on the axle, and on the truck.

I actually have too much pinion angle now, moving them back 10*, welding them on for good, then set my caster, weld the knuckles, and assemble the axle...

Gil where the FAWK is my QUOTE!!!???

EDIT: the last pics have the weight of the truck on the axle, it is not sitting on the jackstands, so my shackle angle is perfect at ride height. Just gotta cut the extra **** off of the end of the shackles.

 

When you say you're moving them back 10*, what are you moving back?

 

Rotating the spring perches forward 10 degrees...therefor dropping the pinion angle 10 degrees, and giving me 10 degrees more caster without turning the knuckles.

 

oh ok I see what you're saying. You move where the axle bolts to the leaves so it drops the pinion down and you get a better driveshaft angle. Still learning techincal terms for it, but spring perch makes alot of sense now that I think about it.

What is your driveshaft angle going to be once you get it the way you want it?

 

good...lol.

I already took the axle back off so i can't go measure it, but i'm about done weldin the perches back on so when i re-mount the axle on tonight, i'll measure it.

Maybe 25-35*?