im pretty sure the t-bars will not be any different than coilovers when it comes to adjustment issues... its all in the control arms and the the height your sitting at when swapping over, you'll have the same adjustments with the coilovers (preloads using spanner wrenches) as you did with the t-bars..

however I could be wrong, just a thought

 

When doing a front end alignment on a torsion bar truck, you install alignment cams in the upper control arm bolts and adjust camber/caster with these alignment cams. i have lined up trucks with maxed t-bars by using these cams and been able to get it back to spec without a problem. Your Ford dealer is feeding you a line of crap telling you they had to turn your torsion bars down THAT much to correct camber. i have never seen an SLA torsion bar vehicle (even superlifted) be out of spec enough where i have had to de-crank the bars to get it in spec.

as for the coil overs, if they are set up within factory ride height spec, either for a stock suspension or a superlifted one, there is no reason camber cannot be set correctly after the coils have settled

 

Why would it be any different than the SL setup ?

All that is being replaced is the Shock/T-Bar setup, the lift should be as the SL Kit and all adjustments.

 

did the 800 lbs springs have anything to do with your shocks breaking? a year and a half isnt that long, unless you beatt he crap out of them lol

well, im gonna try and exchange my new 800's for 750's. hopefully ORW will be cool and trade me lol

 

Maybe.. i had them cranked about half way down the coilover. a couple days before they broke, maybe about a week i was camping, and doing stupied stuff i nthe ranger.. jumping it etc.. so im sure that had to do with it...

But the 800lb coils were way to stiff... way way to stiff.

 

See below...

I don't get how you can say this is wrong NVS. Think about it like this.

Take the Suspension out of this for a minute... (so no coilover or Torsion Bar). The Control Arms are still going to move in a given travel arcing path, perpendicular to the truck, based strictly on the Arms.

And depending on the where tire is sits level with the ground on that Control Arm path will control where in that path is deemed "Aligned". The adjustments for this alignment are done on the Control Arms, not the T-Bars (or Coilovers).

So therefore, once you have ride height setup on the Coilovers or T-Bars, it's just a matter re-doing your alignment.

 

sorry i havent updated. start watching yalls front doorsteps/mailboxes this week and next week!


p.s.- i wont be on here for the next couple days so if yall have any questions or need anything, text me(for those that have my number) or just email me black01edge@saoffroad.com.

 

So what your saying is go with the 750s?? I eventually plan on getting a bumper and winch so will 750s be enough?

 

If you dont want to not have any suspension give get the 800's. I had them, and im telling yall now its really really really stiff. Way to stiff. The whole truck will vibrate and shake and the suspension will not compress at all really. speed bumps sucked.

 

So basically if you go with 800's your wasting your mone yand totally bunking the swap in the first place, might as well keep the tbars....mine are 650s cuz im 2wd

 

Matt, ok that makes total sense to me, and thank you for explaining it so my slow brain can understand it. BUT.......like I had said before with MOOG upper control arms, you no long have the adjustments that were available with the stock "FORD" control arms. I believe it was the passanger side. I've upgraded to these arms, which no long have those bolt adjustments. So when you do, or have someone do the alignment on the truck where are adjustments made? Like I had stated before: is the "adjustments" only made with the shims that go inbetween the control arm bushings and the frame?

Thank you again for explaining it.

 

SWEET!

 

You do know that only adjusted caster on the passenger side right? Ford did that because several places have crowned roads, this allowed the shop to add or subtract caster to allow the truck to drive down the road without pulling in the crown of the road.

You can still adjust camber which is the tilt in and out on the upper or lower arms to make the tire straight up and down at ride height. Caster on IFS rigs is pretty much set as is. It doesnt need changed and shouldnt change in the cycle of the suspension like a solid axle truck.

 

without the two piece arm, you can still adjust caster my moving one cam out and the other in FYI

 

Can I say more ????!!!!?!?!?

 

After sitting here last night re-reading everything, I realized how DENSE my head must be...LOL thank you guys again for explaining it....must be my "sometimers disease" catching up with me.

 

Woop woop!

 

did you get it?!?! lol

who got their kit? im still waiting... patiently...

 

No !

I am still waiting but I was trying to be funny with Jacob's statement "shipments have been made ".

Here's hopping we get them sooner than later.

luck,

 

 

yes!!! nice

 

^^ Sweet!!

 

sweet is right. but i wish i had my brackets too good weekend to install these bad boys

 

...dont we all. I really want to get this done sometime this year lol

 

MOAR PLEASE!