Well I tried to find the bolt at 5 different hardware and bolt stores. no one as anything. You should go get another and ship it to me.

 

There's an NPT pipe fitting that works, got mine from a local hardware as well. Believe its under 5 bucks.
Chris

 

They didnt have any metric pipe fittings where I was. Maybe I'll try a plumbing store.

Another question guys, the 2 "connectors, studs" or whatever the hell you wanna call them, coming off of the coolant rail...what connects to them? I have 2 identical rubber hoses coming off the bottom of the upper intake that are perfect length and ID to fit them but I can't see why the coolant would go through the upper intake????? Any help is appreciated as always fella's. Thanks, John

Edit:Also forgot, made some progress tonight. Not much, but some is better than none. Mounted the P.S. Pump and resi. (gotta go to the jy and get a cap, lost mine) Hooked up the lines, (except the cooler lines, need to go get some sort of cooler while at the jy also) Pinned 2 wires together in the trans harness and ziptied the harness up and out of the way in case I ever decide I want an automatic. Pulled the little computer that is in the center of the floorboard under the dash because my shifter will be coming up right there. Not sure where I am going to put it just yet, would like to know what it is in-case I can just scrap it??? And finished up the rear end. Painted the diff cover and slapped it on there and filled it up. Ready to test the lincoln locker :)

 

prettysick build. cant wait to see some vids of it getting dirty

 

On second thought, it was a compression fitting, not a NPT fitting. I'm not sure on the size, i just walked in with the header and tried em. Any good hardware will have a selection of compression fittings, in brass.

As for coolant nipples, in upper intakes with internal EGR (96, early 97), coolant is routed into the upper to cool it from the exhaust gasses. I would just weld up the nipples to prevent any future leaks. I tried capping the ones on my T-bird, but due to repeated failures finally welded em.

 

AFAIK, all of the 5.0 Explorer uppers have coolant running through them. To bypass my 99, I ran a u-shaped hose from one barb to the other just in case I ever might need to reconnect the manifold hoses.


That's the Retraints Control Module for the airbags.

 

Ahhh, okay, thanks bob. I'll do what you did with the hoses and i'll find a new home for the computer under the dash somewhere. I still need to pull the guage cluster back out and put the light back in the air bag position so I don't have to hear that beep you were talking about earlier in discussion. Will my clock spring being broken affect anything other than no horn, cruise, or airbag? And since the airbag won't work will it make the computer do anything different? Noises, lights, etc...

 

If the CS is broken, the airbag circuit will be open and the RCM will light the airbag indicator lamp or sound the 5x5 beep. The cruise and horn should be the only other casualties of a broken CS but those don't have warning devices.

 

Wirelessly posted

Check out a plumbing store first if one is close by........if no luck let me know and I will get you one...send me the size again bc I took the manifold with me to match it up. It may have been less than $5 IDK its been over a year since I got it.

 

For the M22-1.50 plug, check a chain auto parts store that sells Dorman stuff. They have a drain plug #65384 with those threads. It looks like it should work but might have to be shortened slightly to fit. The price is about $10 or so.

 

I'll do that Bob, I'll stop by on the way home and see if they have any in stock at advanced or autozone. And i swear, these damn airbags are aggravating me. lol Guess I need to start researching how to change the clockspring.

 

Actually made a little progress today. Wasn't even planning to work on anything but I found some time. Went to the JY and found the block plate I needed, had to pull the clutch and flywheel off to get it, but it was totally worth the $3.75. lol The only other one I could find was on Ebay for $40!!



Painted the Bellhousing.


Diff cover painted up and slapped on.


Wheres this one go?


And these two vacuum lines? They come off 1 connector on the upper intake.


And how the motor sits now.


Thanks guys

 

The two smaller lines appear to be an EGR line, and a fuel pressure reg vacuum line, IIRC. At this point I can't remember if you're running returnless fuel lines or not.

If the larger line is the one coming straight forward in the last pic, its for the evap system, it runs behind the PS reservoir and to a module located under front of the driver side fender.

 

Ahhhhh okay. Thanks man. I'll check it out and see if I can them all hooked up.

 

Good luck. Let me know if I'm incorrect on the rear lines, and I'll go take a look at mine. Its been awhile since I've had my intake off.
Chris

 

I'll let you know man. I should be back on it wednesday night making a little progress.

Anyone know how the clutch position sensor goes on? A picture would be helpful. I think I know how it goes, but if so it is going to be a major pita. Thanks

 

You had it right chris. Got them all hooked up just now. Had to search for the one behind the power steering pump but I found it.
Thanks dude.

Back to work.

 

Let it be known!!!!

Small block bellhousings with external slave cylinders will not work in 98-00 4wd ranger's. The slave cylinder runs in to the rear differential mount. And if you want to run 4wd you can forget it. The driveshaft would nail the slave cylinder mount everytime you had any uptravel. Not a big deal for me, i'll just cut out that rear mount and won't have 4wd till I sas this winter. There's a mount on the front of the diff too that will hold it for now since I won't be putting any torque on it. But I definately would not run 4wd without that rear mount.

 

Quad posts!!!! lol

Okay, well I got everything I wanted done tonight. Clutch position sensor is in the right way and most of my lines are hooked up on the engine excpet a couple.

If you are looking at the rear of the upper intake, the top right stud doesnt have a hose on it. What hooks to it? Could I just cap it? I am not running egr so If I can, just say the word. Let me know If I need to snag a pic. I need to know before saturday cause I'll be putting the transmission in then and won't have easy access to it anymore.

Thanks fella's!!

 

Pic would be good if you want to know what its supposed to do, but you can certainly throw a vacuum cap on it. I believe the brake booster vacuum source is back there somewhere, so make sure its hooked up.
Chris

 

It is the one directly to the right of the brake booster. But i'll wake up a little early and snap a quick picture and post it up in the morning just in case we still can't figure it out.

 

I figured out what went there. I had the line in my box of parts.

New question though, How did you guys route your battery harness to the starter? And where does the ground bolt that is in the battery harness screw into?

Thanks guys

 

The starter harness loops down under the oil filter and across the front of the oil pan. The harness has 2 flat steel stays that are fastened by nuts to the studs that bolt on the front cover. A ground cable connection also goes to the same stud as the driver side stay. After passing across the front of the oil pan, the harness makes a right angle bend and continues back to the starter.

 

Thanks Bob! One more for you, If the computer still hasn't been re-tuned could I still test the starter to make sure it spins or will it not work without the computer being re-tuned?

 

it should still spin, otherwise just jump it with a screw driver. kinda ghetto but i had to start my car like that the other day cuz something is messed up with the key.

heck thats how i started my 5.0 with a screw driver ha. turned right over but it was tuned. but if the computer is stock for that motor it should be okay.