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8-Cylinder Tech If you are one of the few with a V8 engine in your Ranger, or if you dream of a Ranger with a V8 engine, this is the sub-forum for you.

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  #151  
Old 12-03-2010
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Sorry

Last edited by Poorboy; 12-03-2010 at 11:20 PM. Reason: I guess I should just kept quite
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  #152  
Old 12-03-2010
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Alright man. Well I appreciate the advice. Really.
But why come on someones thread and just start critizing there work or decisions before you even tell them "nice job" or what have you.
I havent cheaped on anything.
Obviously the damage wasn't too bad because before I even told Remmy what I wanted done he looked at the motor in person and said it can honed, no problem. He builds race motors for all the local short track guys and mud drag guys. I was reffered to him by multiple people. I think it's in good hands and everything will be fine.
Link to the bolt kit I ordered.
Milodon 83010 - Milodon Complete Engine Bolt Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com
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  #153  
Old 12-06-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRacer View Post
Using all new bolts, can't remember the brand name i went with. Not gunna use ARP though, I'm not changing anything in the bottom end so I won't need them.
How am i wasting money?
It's gunna be a rebuilt motor.
It's being done at a very reliable shop that's been around for about 15 years and they've always done quality work.
Plus I don't have the money for a boar. Stupid college...

Edit: Also talked to Remmy (motor guy) today and we're gunna do an adjustable timing set and adjust it 3* for better low end power to coincide with the 1.7 rockers. Only $95 and no labor cost. Can't beat that :)
Not gunna use ARP bolts??? Why not do it right the first time?
If you don't have the money because of college then you should wait until you can do it right. It will just end up costing you more money in the long run. That's just my 2 cents.
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  #154  
Old 12-06-2010
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I'm barely even mocking up the motor. There is no sense in spending the extra money.
If i was changing the cam or doing some serious bottom end work i would definately use ARP's but that would be overkill for my application.

And Donald, it's cool. Sorry for losing my cool.
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  #155  
Old 12-24-2010
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block is back at home, gunna see if a couple f my buddies can come over today and help me put it on the stand. they did a fantastic job with it!!! i'll post pics once i get it on the stand.
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  #156  
Old 12-24-2010
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Engine must of had low miles on it. 302s usally have too much ridge in the front cylinders to hone. 1.7 rockers is a good way of getting a little more spunk without changing the cam. Look forward to some pictures.
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  #157  
Old 12-24-2010
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The guy I bought it from claimed it had 130 on it. But anyhow on to the pics, Merry Christmas also

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And some new parts:
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Waiting on my bolt kit from summit. It is on backorder now so no telling when i'll get it. In the meantime i'm gunna save up some $$ and get a new oil pan w/o the low oil sensor and get the head work done.
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  #158  
Old 12-24-2010
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Don't like how the oil filter area got painted, but besides that it looks really good. If you have a die grinder, look for a 3m cleaning tool thats made of hard plastic that has a bunch of fingers on it. should be like a 2 inch disc. Looks like this Name:  gaskettool1.jpg
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Size:  80.0 KB Works great for cleaning gasket areas and such. Definately gonna make you happy. I have an interesting engine build I will post for ya, cause it shows how with a set of heads and a intake and carb you can have over 400hp. Oh yeah and headers, but you almost have to have them with a ranger swap anyways.
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  #159  
Old 12-25-2010
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Those gasket removing discs (post above me) work GREAT. Although, they can and will remove metal. I'd NEVER use one on any head surface. I love em though. They make removing leftover gasket material a sinch.



GB :)
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  #160  
Old 12-25-2010
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I wasnt sure about the paint on the oil filter area either. I'll end up getting some fine grit sand paper and removing it before i put the remote oil filter mount on there. I use emery cloth on my gasket surfaces. Always have and it works awesome. There gunna resurface the bottom of the heads for me though so i dont have to worry about that.
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  #161  
Old 12-25-2010
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this looks just like my build lol
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  #162  
Old 12-25-2010
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Here is the article for ya I mentioned earlier. 400 HP 302 ci AFR 165 cc(Stock Cam)
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  #163  
Old 12-26-2010
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It pretty much is Mark. lol
I looked at your whole thread for ideas and what not.
Just hope when i finish i don't have a gremlin like you did. Did you ever get that sorted out btw?
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  #164  
Old 12-26-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFIVE View Post
Here is the article for ya I mentioned earlier. 400 HP 302 ci AFR 165 cc(Stock Cam)
Nice! Heads are lots $$$$ though. Plus i'm not building a hot rod here, just giving it some more power so i can turn some heads and some 38's.
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  #165  
Old 12-26-2010
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looks good man!
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  #166  
Old 12-26-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRacer View Post
Nice! Heads are lots $$$$ though. Plus i'm not building a hot rod here, just giving it some more power so i can turn some heads and some 38's.
Still thought I should share. 38s are pretty big, so all said and done, you might want to rethink the potential of a set of heads and a few tricks. Allready got one. One thing is you don't have to use those heads persay, you could even use some RHS cast irons or something that will flow. Those stock heads are quite restrictive. Good look on the build anyways, and I will probubly try to show you things that I have come across over the years. I have had a V8 swap on the brain for 11 years now.
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  #167  
Old 12-26-2010
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lol I'm gunna gear 5.13's when it's time for the 38's anyways. I need to finish this first though. :)
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  #168  
Old 01-01-2011
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Cam Position Sensor, is this the black piece with a gear on the end of it, drops down into the bottom end of the motor, and it sits beside the thermostat housing?

And thanks for all the compliments everyone! :)
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  #169  
Old 01-02-2011
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More or less. The CPS is technically just the sensor bolted to the top of that. I believe the rest of it is called the cam synchro.
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  #170  
Old 01-02-2011
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And I need the special tool to put it back in correctly, right?
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  #171  
Old 01-02-2011
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Yup. The tool installs in place of the CPS on top of the synchro, and aligns it correctly. You set the engine to TDC on cylinder 1's compression stroke to install it.

I don't remember the tool being very expensive, but you will probably have to order it. There are two different ones, so make sure whether you have the two wire or three wire sensor.

I think i got mine from Amazon.com , and its made by OTC
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  #172  
Old 01-02-2011
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Ford CMP alignment tool part numbers:

303-562 – 96~98 5.0L Explorer (3-wire HE)
303-630 – 99~01 5.0L Explorer (2-wire VRS)


OTC part numbers (OTC is the company that manufactures the Ford tools above):

6469 – 96~98 5.0L Explorer (3-wire HE)
6470 – 99~01 5.0L Explorer (2-wire VRS)
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  #173  
Old 01-04-2011
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Thanks Bob and Chris, It's like $30. I don't have to order it, I'm gunna get it off the Matco truck, he has 2 of them, so one is prolly the 3 wire and 1 is prolly the 2 wire. I just wanted to make sure it was the right tool and i'm glad i asked b/c i wouldn't have known if i needed the 3 or 2 wire.
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  #174  
Old 01-05-2011
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The easy way to tell by looking at the tools is that the 3 wire has a half circle on the bottom for aligning the synchro, while the 2 wire has a 7/8th circle or so.

Also, I hate to disagree with bob, but I've gotten a CPS from a 1998 explorer that was a 2 wire. I seem to remember 98 being a year with three different 5.0 variations depending on build date though, so it probably changes during the model year.

Chris
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  #175  
Old 01-05-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a77cj7 View Post
Also, I hate to disagree with bob, but I've gotten a CPS from a 1998 explorer that was a 2 wire. I seem to remember 98 being a year with three different 5.0 variations depending on build date though, so it probably changes during the model year.
FWIW, the year split that I gave is from Ford Technical Service Bulletin 02-22-1 and the EVTM also says that the 98 5.0 has a 3-wire. If there is any doubt, it's easy enough to do a physical check of the sensor before ordering the tool.
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