Well f 2 and 350's came with them from the factory with 302's and possibly even the 351. So it has to be worth half a crap. But I'm not getting the slave cylinder with this box of clutch stuff so maybe i'll look into on a f250 forum and see what they're doing about the slaves.

 

Motor is back at the shop getting all finished up. Should be ready in a few weeks, he's a little backed up cause i think mud truck racing season is starting up. A lot of those guys go to him. So in the meantime i'll be putting that new clutch pedal assembly in, throttle cabl, motor mount and hacking up the batt. harness. Also going to do a radiator relocate to the bed of the truck. Been researching that a lot. :)

And gotta thank Bob for all the parts hes getting out to me. :)

 

Did you get any info on a better clutch setup?

 

Nah, hadnt really looked into to be honest. I will though before i buy one. Hopefully there will be something good out there for reasonable price.

 

Wirelessly posted

Any new updates?

 

I am going to book mark this thread , I have a 96 3.0 . I am thinking about a 5.0 swap

 

Yep, good timing actually. Got my motor back a few hours ago. Head work done, intake decked. Just gotta put the rest of it together and drop it in. Will be dropping it in next saturday. Then i gotta find a tranny. It's looking like I should be running by mid summerish. Check it out!!

 

Looks good dude, i gotta do some stuff to my 5.0 soon, wish mine looked that clean.

 

It only looks clean cause it's fresh. After I take it out once or twice it'll all be over. lol

 

Been prepping the truck and motor all week. Going to torque the lower intake on tomorrow, also go to JY and get a ranger battery harness so I can change out whatever plugs I need to.

Big update: Decided against the zf or m5. Going out there on a limb....t-18. Going to pick it up tomorrow night. Has all good clutch stuff, all the lines, master, and slave, and a small block bellhousing so I should be good to go once I figure out which flywheel and starter I need. (If anyone knows don't be afraid to speak up) I'm thinking I should be able to use my master and connect to the t-18 slave. We will see. The guy said Everything is in great shape. He ran it in his bronco and replaced the clutch not long before he started to part the truck out. I will check it all out tomorrow when I go to pick it up. But for $100 if the tranny shifts fine I will be happy. lol

And also if anyone happens to know which wires I need to mess with in the transmission harness let me know. I know that I am going to need to connect two of them together, Just have no idea which ones and I dont have any schematics to go off of either.

 

Very productive day, not just on the mazda, but also got a lot done on my buddies bronco too.

Motor is in. Pics to follow monday night, too tired tonight and mothers day is tmrw so I'm booked. Also went and got the transmission. Awesome deal. Everything is in great shape and will bolt right up, the line coming from the slave to the master will hook straight up to my master. So no problems there. And took a measurement real quick tonight, I will have to cut about 3" out of the floor for the shifter on the tranny. Not too bad. I'll Just buy a thin piece of aluminum and bend it to shape and screw it down once I see where everything is coming through the floor at. Pics to follow on the transmission also.

But here is a just a teaser picture that i have on the computer...

 

The T18 is a good, strong transmission but I have never liked driving one on the street. The lack of an overdrive gear means more highway noise with lower fuel economy. The granny 1st is so low that it is unusable on the street. So, basically, you have a 3 speed street box with super long shifter throws. Traditionally a popular gearbox for a farm truck but definitely not set up for fun performance driving.

The T18's granny gear could be useful for mild crawling off road if you need it. For this, I would favor a small block ZF instead because it also has an overdrive ratio for the highway.

The comments above apply to the T18 as fitted to the 5.0 F-series. There were other T18 variants but I don't have any experience with those.

The park/neutral starter switch of the 99~01 Ex 4R70W is between the pink and tan/red wires of the trans harness. This switch closes to allow the starter to work.

 

Awesome info Bob!! Thank you! And this tranny is an f-series. I realize the overdive problem, but i have decided that this is not going to be much of highway vehicle. And the granny low will be fun for wheeling.

 

Some pics too.

 

Nice! I have always liked your truck and can't wait to see it finished.

 

There's more to my dislike for the T18 than just the lack of overdrive. The gear spacing is fairly wide and the shifter throws are super long and the action is notchy. Even compared to the mediocre M5ODR2, the T18 always reminded me of driving an old dump truck. You might like it but I wish you could try one before deciding.

On the plus side, the T18 does have an external slave cylinder.

 

Oh boy, none of the 5.0 manual trannys seem to be any good. All of them have some serious disadvantages so no matter what you get it will have a weak spot.

Aluminum case, weak slave, no OD, bad shifter position...you just can't win haha


Are you running an electric fan or mechanical?

 

Thanks guys!

Just playing with the shifter on the ground I can feel the super long throws your talking about, and I too wish I could have test drove other things. Unfortunately, all my buddies have this tranny or other 4 speeds like it. I am excited about not having to drop the tranny once a year to change slave cylinders though. lol The main reason for going with this tranny is practicallity. It wouldn't be wise for me to fork over $300+ for a transmission that will rarely see the highway. (ZF) So the issues that we are speaking of do not bother me. Maybe one day I will go with a ZF though. Who knows??

Dual electric fans. Bed mounted radiator. The bed mount is kind of a hack job IMO. But by this time next year it will be good. Me and some buddies just built a simple frame to mount it on and throw it in the bed of the truck until I exo cage it next spring and can mount it on the roll bars in the bed. Others people say it doesnt look so bad, but I am personally not too fond of it. I like my stuff to look good. I'll post a pic later of it.

 

This is my idea for a petcock on the motor. I screwed this T into the 1/2" hole where the coolant temperature sensor goes, put a petckock on the side of the T and the coolant temperature sensor on top of the T. The whole idea for the petcock is to let any extra air out of the system. With lots of reading I found that other guys who have done a rear mounted radiator had lots of problems with bleeding the cooling system and they found that it was most easily acheived by simply parking the rear of their truck on an incline forcing the radiator too be much higher than the motor and putting a petcock at the highest point on the motor. So this is what I came up with, but I am now worried that while the petcock may serve it's purpose very well, do you think that the coolant temperature sensor will still catch little hot air pockets and give me or the computer a wrong reading???

 

I swapped the location of the petcock and sensor on the above picture.

But anyway, on to new things. Time for some tech from the pros.

I have:
2001 Mountaineer 5.0
1980 F-150 t-18 and bellhousing

Which flywheel, starter, and block plate do I need??? I know it needs to be a 50oz imbalance flywheel. But how many teeth, and which block plate and starter do I need to go with it?? Any help is very greatly appreciated. I've done a little research on it but not a whole lot. I know that this transmission was last in a 1992 ford bronco. If we can't figure it out Ican just call the guy who I bought it from and ask him what all he was using.

Thanks guys!

 

90's 302 F-series and Bronco used a 164T / 50 oz-in flywheel, 11" truck clutch, manual truck starter and matching manual block plate. None of this stuff will interchange with a Fox Mustang.

 

Awesome stuff Bob!!

Thank you soo much! I knew you would chime in with the direct answer.

 

Got the flywheel and bolts today. There is only one ford dealer in the state who has my block plate and there parts dept was closed today so I'll call them monday and get what I need. Got the sparkplugs put in, Bosch Platinum +2 is what I went with. They have a $1 mail in rebate on each sparkplug too. $8 won't get you far these days, but it's $8. Assembled more stuff on the motor. Upper intake and spacer. Had to get those longer bolts, lucked up and got them at the local hardware store. My buddy is going to cut an EGR block plate for me and I will get the m22 - 1.50 EGR plug on monday. Last night I ordered a high torque starter off ebay and a used MAF. By this time next month I should be very close to starting it up. It prolly won't drive till the end of summer, but right now I am just focused on cranking it up. Then it is all down hill from there. Alright, enough typing, back to work. I might post some pics up later.

 

Where have you guys sourced your m22-1.50 EGR plug? Best I could find was online for $22 and its actually an oil pan plug for some sort of lawnmower. Anyone have a better price?

EDIT: Also, anyone have a block plate for a 90's 302 f-150 or bronce with a manual tranny? Only one I can find is on Ebay used and its not in the best shape and the price is high considering the condition, the one that was supposedly in stock in my state is not. I found that JEG's sells some sort of block plate that can be used with auto or manual but i don't really want that. I want the exact part I need.

Thanks Guys

 

Wirelessly posted

I got mine at Ace Hardware for $8 or so. I took my manifold with me and found it in about 10 minutes.