I would assume you need the fuel line, but it should come with the engine.

Not sure what you mean by a/c intercooler.
Chris

 

idk why i said intercooler, i meant condensor. lol
but sounds good on the fuel line.
Why would i have to change it though?
Does the explorer use a different fitting than the ranger?
Did you change yours?

 

I plugged the 99 Explorer engine fuel line directly into the 2003 Ranger body fuel line, no problem.

For A/C, I used all of the 2003 Ranger parts over except the hose manifold assembly which is unique to the 5.0 Ex. Depending on which radiator you use, there could be minor interference between mounts on the rad and the condenser. Should be easily corrected if necessary.

 

On the fuel line, i replaced mine just because it was the easiest way to deal with it. I guess i can take a look at my spare parts pile and see if they are the same. I'm not sure why you're so worried about this one, a salvage yard shouldn't want more than 5 bucks for the line chunk.

As for the condenser, the stock ranger one would theoretically work. However, you need the radiator from a 5.0 truck, as it is larger. The condenser for the 5.0 radiator mounts differently,so its easiest just to get the radiator/condenser assembly instead of messing with it. You need the 5.0 fan shroud also.

 

Wirelessly posted

I am running a 4.0 Explorer Radiator because the 5.0 wouldnt fit between my frame rails and it cooled fine all Summer.........the 5.0 may fit your truck if its a 98 or newer body style. Also I had to use the 5.0 condenser because my 4 cyclinder one bolted on differently.....your stock Condenser will work if it bolts on the same way as the 5.0.

 

I have to run the 5.0 radiator. lol
It would definately over heat during the summer here.
i was thinking about doing a radiator re-locate to the bed of the truck. It probably sounds dumb, but it's a really smart thing to do for what i'm gunna be using the truck for anyways. So i may end up just running a big aluminum radiaor anyways.
As for fuel line, I'll just get the 5.0 one.
A/c, all i need is the hose. I can keep my 4.0 condensor.
Thanks guys.
Gunna try and make my last run to the yard this weekend, then save up for the motor.

 

Orderin my motor friday!! :)))
I ended up working a couple night shifts this weekend so i got a little extra $$.
Didn't make it to the JY because of this but maybe i can go this coming up weekend if im not busy and still have some extra $$ after ordering the motor. I found a few good potential candidates on car-part.com and i'm gunna call them tomorrow and see which one has the best price.

 

Just to clarify...

The Explorer uses an intermediate stainless fuel line that connects the Ex 5.0 fuel rail to the body fuel line. This connector line should be a direct plug and play between the Ex 5.0 fuel rail and the Ranger body fuel line - at least it was in my 2003. I'd make sure that this part is included when you get the engine.

The intermediate line snaps into brackets on the driver side valve cover and has a short length of braided stainless at the front where it goes over to meet the body fuel line. There are Ford quick connects at both ends that require a special tool to remove. Hopefully, you can get to it before the junkyard guys cut it. I'm sure that a new replacement is big bucks.

You can see it clipped to the valve cover in this photo:

 

Thank you bob!! No one really understood my question but i guess that it because no one did what i was asking. I was asking if the braided line already on my ranger would plug in to the 5.0 Fuel Rail. But i now know that i need the stainless line off of the expo. (like the one pictured) I'm about to call in a few minutes and see what all they can give me with the motor. I need a coil pack still and i'm gunna try and get all the accesorry drive brackets also. And the fuel line of course.
Thanks again and i'll update in a few minutes after i talk to them.

 

Most yards will sell you a complete, ready to swap in motor. They are usually pretty good about either unplugging lines and hoses, or cutting them after the connection. The only thing they usually remove is the FEAD.

It also occurs to me that you will have to get a starter, as that doesn't come with the engine or trans. Your best bet would be to get that from the pull it yard, so you get all the hardware and the torque converter cover plate. Its not too hard to get too, and is very do-able under a truck in the yard.

 

Just got off the phone with the guy, he's very laid back and you can tell it's his own yard.
He said he'll give me everything i want for $245.
This would include:
Motor (135,000)
Accesory Brackets
Starter
Coil Pack
Fuel line.
And he said shipping has been about $200 lately.
Comes with a 30 day warranty.
He said the motor is still in a mountaineer that was in a front end accident and he went out and looked at it for me and said the radiator is just barely touching the fan, so i should be alright. He also said he's never heard it run before, so it's risky but i'm tearing the motor down somewhat anyways. And i think i'm gunna see if the MAF is in good shape and if it is i'm gunna get him to throw that in there also.
So i told him i'd call him back friday and make the purchase.

 

Thanks chris, so i may just tell him not to worry about the starter and i'll go get it myself cause you make a good point about the hardware and TC plate. So scratch the starter and i'm gunna tell him i need motor mounts also. As you can't use 4.0 ones right? And i'll ask about the MAF also.
Im gunna be running a aftermarket intake tube and setup so i dont need the intake tube.
I already have:
P.S. pump and resovoir.
A.C. Compressor.
Both wiring harnesses. (even though he'll prolly send me one or both of them with the motor)
PCM
Throttle and CC cable
I can reuse my 4.0 Alternator.
Anything else i'm overlooking???? :)

 

Other Ex 5.0 parts:
High pressure PS hose
Throttle and cruise cables
A/C hose manifold
Radiator and hoses
Block plate

 

Gettin the A/c hose and
p/s hose at the local pul it yard.
Got the throttle and cruise cables.
Gunna Get a new radiator probably.
Rad hoses i'll collect as i find them and then buy whatever i cant find at autozone.

Prolly about to sound dumb, but i gotta learn somehow, so what's a blockplate?

 

It's a plate, maybe about 1/8" thick that fits between the block and bellhousing. It reinforces both and shields the bottom of the clutch/torque converter from road debris/spray and provides the correct spacing for the input shaft length. You must get the right one for your 302 application. Auto/manual blockplates are usually different. Blockplates for 157T and 164T are different.

It will look something like this generic picture:

 

Okay thanks Bob.
I'm running an auto transmission and i'll make sure that mountaineer is an automatic also.
And i want to get a tranny with the tow package. So which block plate should i need?

 

It sounds like you're moving along pretty well and you're gettin one heck of a deal on that Mountaineer 5.0. I don't think you could even get a manual trans in a Mountaineer, so you should be good on that.

 

Stock Explorer 5.0 block plate. You'll also need the small, removable lower inspection plate that allows access to the torque converter / flexplate nuts.

Be sure to get a 4R70W that is compatible with the Engine/PCM/harnesses that you will use. Best bet for your truck is to get everything from a 99~01 Ex. These were the best years for the 4R in an Ex and there will be no electrical incompatibilities.

There is no special "tow package" transmission from the factory but you can get a variety of aftermarket kits that will help.

Within any given year, the only trans variation with the 5.0 is whether the output shaft/housing is 2WD or AWD. If you're going to retain your Ranger's 4WD, you'll need the AWD transmission.

The 5.0 trans used a heat exchanger in the radiator plus an external oil-to-air cooler for the transmission. You'll need the A/T radiator, the A/T cooler and the 3 fluid lines and clips. Don't forget the Explorer specific transmission dipstick tube and dipstick. Ditto for the shift cable.

 

That's the same thing i was thinking, but there are people out there who mod things, so better to be safe then sorry. lol

I CANT WAIT TO GET THE MOTOR!!!!! :)
I'll finally feel some progress.
I'm gunna go get a little harbor freight motor stand to put it on while i work on it.
Here are some updated plans.

Parts list so far:
Paint up the motor with a Black oil pan and block, Silver Heads, Black Lower intake, Silver upper intake, and Black valve covers.
1.7 Crane roller rockers
Trickflow valve covers
1" Heat spacer
Custom intake tube. (Snorkeling it into the cab)
Headers
EGR Delete
No cats, 3" true dual exhaust with a flowmaster single chamber on each pipe, turn down at rear bumper.
Electric Fans
Thinking about doing a DIY port and polish, but idk anything about that stuff so not sure yet.
And the tune.
I think that is it.

 

Thanks Bob, I have gotten everything out of 99-01 expo's so far. :)
And the only reason i said tow package was because i thought that only the tow packages had the external tranny fluid cooler. But now i know that all of them have that. :)
And I was planning on getting an AWD Tranny. And i didn't know i needed the Shift cable but good info! :)

 

You can compare your current Ranger shift cable but I think I remember the Explorer piece being a different part number. It's been a while since I did mine and I was going manual to auto so I needed a cable regardless.

 

Yea, i'm not even close to purhasing a tranny yet, but when i do i'll just go ahead and get the shift cable to be safe. I want to get the motor completely ready and have it dropped in before i get a tranny because i can't fix a tranny if it's messed up, so i'll need the 30-60 day warranty in-case it's messed up.
Thanks for all your help Bob!

 

You don't need to replace the shift cable. Otherwise sounds good. Great deal on the engine.

 

Also, why do you want to delete the EGR?
You'll want an H or X pipe in the true duals.
Intake in cab is hella loud.

 

Cool, thanks for the shift cable info chris.
Delete the EGR, because with the heat spacer you have to rig it up for it work and i don't really care about it so i'll just plug the hole and get the tuner to delete it.
Good info on the exhaust.
And intake in cab i know about. But it's pretty much gunna be a trail rig. I MIGHT get it re-insured and put back on the road, but i'm not sure yet. And i may end up running it up the a-pillar like most people do. Not sure yet though.