Type B PATS, as used in your 99 Ranger/Mazda and the 98~01 5.0L Explorer, should spin the starter using a correct cut key but do not allow the engine to fire without a recognized RFID from the PATS key. [Some other PATS such as Type E, disable engine operation and also disable the starter when an unrecognized key is used.]

 

Thanks guys. I read that on the ranger station but just wanted to pass it back by and make sure. I just want to test it. I need some motivation to hurry and finish this beast. Maybe hearing the starter spin when I turn the key will do something. lol It's been on the backburner lately. Money is tight because of vacation so I have to not spend any on it until July :(

There is plenty I can still do in the meantime though.

 

Spun it over today. Felt good to finally have some results after all the work. Few hundred more dollars and it should start up.

 

Any chance I could get some help with how to install the trow out bearing?
Tried googling for about 15 minutes but got aggravated. I've never messed with clutch stuff. I watched a youtube video of how to install the clutch and pressure plate, just need help with the throwout bearing. I'm not sure if I have it on the right way. I might just stop at autozone and read the how to in the Haynes manual.
Ordered the EGR plug also. Should be here by the wknd.

 

throughout bearing is fairly easy. find a matching socket to the diameter and pound her home.

 

I think that's the pilot bearing mark. I'm talking about the bearing that sits in the clutch fork. Isn't that the throwout bearing? I may be mistaken.

 

oops! haha. yea its been so long since i replaced my clutch assembly in the ranger. the throughout bearing assembly should simply slide right over the input shaft on the trans if im not mistaken

 

But I am having trouble understanding how it sits in the shift fork. It just sits in there? Does it need to face any specific direction?

It just seems sloppy. It is not held in very tight.

 

What do you guys think of these Valve Covers?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...19649270156525
They look like they will work.
Just trying to save a few bucks by not going with the name brand trick flows.
If you have any other suggestions, let me know. Trying to keep it under $140 shipped.

 

I think I got my trick flows for under $140 shipped...But price might have gone up a little in two years.

 

Dead link?

 

Don't worry about it Bob, I'm gunna go with some different ones anyway.

 

Ended up going with these. Brand new and they appear to be nice quality.
30 day warantee, so I can send them back if I am not satisfied or if the rocker arms hit. They said that they would clear any 5.0 motor so we will see. $110 shipped.

 

its no the motor or rocker arms. its the heater box and room that you have to worry about. guaranteed the ones you bought, the filler neck will have to be on the drivers side if anything.

 

Filler neck appears to be on the passenger front. Where I would like it to be. If it was on the drivers front it would hit the upper intake.

 

Brown Santa showed today. Got the valve covers, oil filter adapter, and Bosch spark plug wires. I took the valve covers outside and cheked them for clearance. Both are great. Even got the ol lady to spin the motor over for me while I held them down and nothing seemed to hit. Soooo, the list of things that I still need to crank it up, is very short.

Oil and filter
Intake
Dipstick
I would like to put a new PCV grommet in the rear of the lower intake. Part #???
Throttle Cable
Oil Filter adapter gasket. Part #???
Base Tune

 

Hit up the JY yesterday for some 1/2 off parts. Got a 95' v8 thunderbird e-fan and Got the a/c manifold hose.

Dropped the computer off to Benjy at Total Performance Solutions today.
He is burning a base tune for me based off the specs of the motor for $175. We will dyno tune it for another $300 later on. He is very nice and easy to work with. We will see how the tune comes out. He also recommened that I have the injectors flow tested and cleaned up at TNT Performance, so I will be dropping the injectors off later this week to have that done. He said that should cost less than $150.

Motor should see some disassembly wednesday nd then hopefully some reassembly saturday. And a fire up is likely in 2 weeks if finances permit.

 

Got the Valve Covers on tonight, and the injectors off.

Quick question.

I used to have an aftermarket radio hooked in (rigged in) and now I switched back to the Stock Radio/Cd/Tape.
While at the junkyard I snagged up a plug. I wired the plug in and the radio works, but I have no sound. I had sound with that aftermarket CD player installed. Does this have something to with PATS or is something messed up. (Possibly picked up the wrong plug?) I have the small plug hooked to it, I see there is a spot for another plug that is slightly larger. The speakers made noise when I plugged the radio in for the first time, but nothing after that.

Thanks for any help.

 

not sure about your radio question, but the rest of the project sounds like its coming along great!

 

Well I went out to the shop tonight and the radio is working now. Checked a few hours later and it is still working. Idk what the deal was but all is well. I'm getting very anxious to crank it up. It won't do me much good just to crank it, but it will still be nice after all the hard work. After I get it cranked, It's on to throwing the transmission up, rebuilding the t-case and getting a driveshaft. Okay, so I skipped a few things, but you get the idea.

 

Thanks man, it is coming along. I'm excited!

 

The radio just randomly started working the next night and has been fine since. The schedule got a little messed up. Been busy. I go to pick up the freshened up injectors and the computer on monday. I'll do some assembling on the motor that night, and depending on how finances look, I might crank it by next week, but it's looking like I'll wait till next pay day. :( Damn expensive toy. lol

 

Ok guys, question time.

Final assembly is going on and causing some questions to come up.

First, the DPFE thingy. Do I need this?? I did an EGR delete.

Second, The vacuum Solenoid, do I need it? It looks like I already have one on my truck on the drivers side fender?

What say you, fellow v8-ers??

 

Motor is all assembled and primed. If everything goes right I'll crank it tommorrow night when I get home from work. Then it's on to hooking up power steering hoses, a/c manifold hose, and coolant lines. I'll try and get a vid of the initial fire up.

 

If EGR is turned off in the calibration, you don't need any of the EGR parts.