What痴 up guys! New to the page I got a 2011 Ford ranger 4.0 xlt 4x4. I bought the truck know it needed a motor. Replaced the motor in the truck got it running under its own power. (Forgive me if this post is to long. Bare with me) started the truck up after I got the new motor dropped in. Over drive light flashing... okay no biggie ran it over to my neighbors place he has a nice snap on scanner to get detailed codes. PO720, P0722, P0755, P0758 and P01000. Okay no biggie I figured. Replaced all valves solenoids on the valve body. Put it back together and replaced the output speed sensor on top of tranny. SAME THING. So after that I replaced the range sensor as well. Still nothing. All fuses are good. Everything. Truck gets to 25 mph. Speedometer freaks out speedometer quits working and reads 覧覧覧覧. Shifts all over the place and when going into R or D like a 10 second delay... so I took it to a transmission shop to get it looked at. They told me they have no signal to the output speed sensor. So luckily my family used to own a local used car lot so we have quite a few connections with shops. So I took the truck over to the electrical shop have them once it over. They tell me it has no out put at the computer. So... I go get a computer for it.... they put it in and PROGRESS they have connection to valve body solenoid B. But still flashing over drive light and shifting weird at 25 mph and same thing it was doing. So that is where I am at can anyone PLEASE give me some advice to point me in the right direction. I知 ready to rip my hair out. I will buy someone a case of beer to point me in the right direction LOL. I知 tired of throwing parts at it which is why I took it to shop. So thanks in advance. Any I mean any advice would be fantastic. Thank you all!

 

Welcome to the foruum

Ignore P1000 it just means battery has been unhook for awhile and computer needs to run emissions test, it will clear itself in a day or two
P0720 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0722 Output Speed Sensor No Signal
P0755 Shift Solenoid B Malfunction
P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical

Output speed sensor(OSS) reads a tone wheel inside the transmission
Each time a tooth on the tone wheel passes by this sensor, the sensor will generate AC voltage, so it generates its own voltage
You can drop the drive shaft and then test the 2 OSS wires with a volt meter set to AC volts, volts are 1v to 15volt AC, higher volts = higher RPM/speed

The OSS is the only speed signal for the vehicle, its signal goes directly to the computer(PCM), the computer then converts the 30,000ppm(pulse per mile) signal to the Ford standard 8,000ppm signal and sends that out to the speedometer, cruise, and other modules
These codes mean the there is no AC signal or an intermittent AC signal from OSS
P0720 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0722 Output Speed Sensor No Signal
And this would, of course, effect shifting in an automatic and cause the no speedometer issue


P0755 Shift Solenoid B Malfunction<<means this solenoid doesn't "seem" to be working

P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical<< this means computer is not "seeing" 12volts passing thru this solenoid

All the transmission solenoids get 12volts with key ON
The Computer has a Ground wire for each solenoid it uses to activate it
A solenoid is just a coil of wire around a metal core, so when you apply 12volts to one end of that coil of wire, 12volts will come out the other end of that coil of wire
So with Key ON, the computer expects to see 12volts on ALL its transmission solenoid wires
P0758 means it didn't on solenoid B
That could be a bad solenoid, or a bad wire from trans to computer

5R55E wiring diagram below, same wiring is used for all 4R and 5R automatics
You can test 12v to solenoid B, so pin 10 to pin 14 with OHM meter to make sure solenoid B is OK, should see 22-48 ohms


BUT...................you have other issues not related to solenoids or sensors
All automatics run on ATF Fluid PRESSURE
Pressure is what puts an automatic "in gear" and holds it in gear
That pressure comes from a pump in the front of the transmission that is driven by the torque converters case, so spins at engine RPMs
You need 110psi to get Drive to engage
You need 160psi to get Reverse to engage<<< this is why people often lose Reverse FIRST when there is a pressure issue
The shifter rod engages Drive and Reverse, no solenoids involved(or speed sensor)

All automatics have pressure test ports on the sides, so you or a shop can test pressure "in gear", need a gauge that can take up to 350psi pressure
Expected pressures for the 5R55E can be found online

So the slow engagement of D and R means your pressure is low, so either leaks in the valve body, clutches/bands or pump is wearing out
You can see if forward engages faster when you shift to 1st this could indicate the one-way clutch is failing

If the 2011 engine was bad then transmission may be as well, so waste of money to try "in vehicle" fixes, rebuild or replace would be my opinion
Engines can just fail, but it has been my experience that a bad engine usually means abuse or no servicing so I would expect the same for transmission

 

Ron, abuse is an understatement. The truck I purchased of this guy I don稚 think he has ever serviced it. What I think happened was the tranny was messing up and the guy was continuing running the crap out of it and the timing chain blew on it. I wish he told me this before I pulled motor because I would have just got it all from the junk yard. If I didn稚 get such a good deal on this truck I would be upset about the whole situation. I知 going to give the electrical shop the rest of the week to come up with something then ship it back over to the tranny shop. I知 just curious why I have no signal coming from the output speed sensor. I知 curious if that tone ring inside could be going bad? Is that a possibility? I just want it fixed so I can make my money on it... major head ache.... but will be worth it in the end. A quick motor job has turned into a few months of a head ache. Profit on this truck is supposed to go towards a down payment on a house.... I appreciate all advice.

 

Well, as said, OSS sensor is not the main issue, nor was solenoid B, the slow engagement of D and/or R is the tell tale main symptom of a transmission on the way out
You can have a cold and recover, or a broken arm and recover, but if blood PRESSURE drops to low..............well, see ya, wouldn't wanna be ya

No, I doubt the tone wheel/reluctor wheel could fail, its part of the Park gear assembly on the 2001 and up 5Rs, but anything is possible

Picture here: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/0DAAA...utN/s-l300.jpg
The larger teeth are for Park pawl
That slid on piece is the tone teeth, it looks like just a friction fit so could get loose

Park gear without tone wheel seen here: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/PTMAA...B2M/s-l300.jpg

 

If break torqued the tranny doesn稚 slip at all forward or reverse. If accelerated hard no slipping once in gear. I was curious if the delay could have something to do with the random shifting and not knowing what gear to pick. The truck only has 115k on it. Which may be enough to set off like a bomb. The previous owner did said however the truck didn稚 shift right and he just ran the hell out of it till it shifted... I spose I値l take it back over to tranny shop and see what they say. Thanks.