5speedin2.3's SAS Thread - Page 8 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #176  
Old 04-09-2008
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^^ k thanks
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  #177  
Old 04-10-2008
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NICE!!
this has to be the fastest SAS so far..

thats some beefy stuff from Ruff Stuff, i may get the shackles from them, i may not... I will be getting diff armor and those axle flip kits from him though.


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Originally Posted by 2002FX4 View Post
Moving on, I don't want to come acrossed as an a**hole or be a PITA, but rather share all of my thoughts/opinions so they're out there. Of course its ultimately you're choice!
i'm doing them in the back if that makes you happy? lol


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Originally Posted by 5speedin2.3 View Post
idk what we are going todo with the steering if we do SOA.

more pictures to come in a few min when i get home.
high steer

but i think i saw "budget lift" or something, so that kinda kills that idea

Last edited by 99ranger4x4; 04-10-2008 at 09:20 PM.
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  #178  
Old 04-10-2008
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i put a extra leaf in the front springs. seems to sit where i want it so were good there. i cut the suspension crossmember up pretty good and the diff clears so all we need now is some bump stops. i'm gonna send daniel to the scrap yard to find some shock mounts off a newer super duty. i'm think i can make them work with little fabrication. the steering i think i figured out, some jeep stuff, some ranger stuff and i piece of DOM 3/4" tube. gonna try to weld the DOM to the ranger and jeep tie rods and use the sleeve from the ranger for the drag link. it should work.

if i can get enough time this weekend it may roll out of the garage and drive down the road.
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  #179  
Old 04-11-2008
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Is there a transfercase in it yet?
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  #180  
Old 04-11-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathbypsi View Post
Is there a transfercase in it yet?
lol no, i still have to get a trans, driveshafts and transfer case.
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  #181  
Old 04-11-2008
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looks good so far.

Mark run more than 3/4" i would at least do 1.25, 1" will work but it will flex. make sure its all at least .25" wall.
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  #182  
Old 04-11-2008
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thats what i was trying to tell him.
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  #183  
Old 04-11-2008
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I know 100% that 1" bows. That is what i have now. 1" diameter with .25" wall.

Now my new stuff at 1.5" diameter and .25 wall that wont bow.
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  #184  
Old 04-11-2008
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Lookin good, wish I lived in Michigan to get help from you guys :(
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  #185  
Old 04-11-2008
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the tube he is talking about is only 16" long and it goes from the gear box to the tierod on the draglink, he said its 3/16ths thick.

basically its just an extension.
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  #186  
Old 04-11-2008
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were using the jeep tie rods.

i'm trying to fab up a drag link but am a little worried about my welds.
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  #187  
Old 04-11-2008
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  #188  
Old 04-11-2008
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looks like im going to need a water pump soon..
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  #189  
Old 04-11-2008
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lol
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  #190  
Old 04-11-2008
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i was thinking that also.
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  #191  
Old 04-11-2008
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i need serious opinions on this please

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  #192  
Old 04-11-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04 EDGE View Post
i need serious opinions on this please
as i told daniel on AIM, i wouldnt run that on the street.

the diameter of tubing has a far greater effect on bending strength than the wall thickness. IMO, 3/4" is too small a diameter. also considerin the ends of the original link only extend 1.5" into the tubing, and you have no plug welds, i dont see enough weld area or penetration into the solid link to make that safe.

build a new link. one LH and one RH TRE, and a piece of 1.25x.250 DOM with welded inserts should be fine, and not too expensive.

Last edited by gumby; 04-11-2008 at 09:28 PM.
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  #193  
Old 04-11-2008
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IMO use a new piece of DOM with some rod ends and the correct TREs on each end.

When it comes to steering and the street you really need to do it right, even if that means spending a little extra money. last thing you want to do is have it break and be liable for killing someone and possibly your self.

Take pitman arm off, fill the hole with weld and retaper that to the Jeep end. Let me see if i can find the part numbers. Rustys may sell something like that to you for around 100.
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  #194  
Old 04-11-2008
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i dont have 100 bucks guys, this has taped me out!

i think i will try to plug weld it, maybe even drill a hole all the way through and put a bolt in it.

the piece i used is DOM .120x1"

a taper tool from matco is 50 bucks
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  #195  
Old 04-11-2008
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puttin a bolt in it will not make it stronger, or prevent that peice of tubing from bending in the middle
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  #196  
Old 04-11-2008
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check this... it may even be the correct taper on both ends.

http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...egory_Code=ste

if its tapped you both out WAIT until you get the funds to finish it.
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  #197  
Old 04-11-2008
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Honestly, I've seen a lot worse. I think it'll be OK until you can get something else later on.
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  #198  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gumby View Post
puttin a bolt in it will not make it stronger, or prevent that peice of tubing from bending in the middle
i dought it will bend in the middle. its not the main link from knuckle to knuckle.

if i drill a hole and use a bolt(s) i will do this at each end where the TREs enter the tube and drill through the tube and the tie rod end. if the welds fail then i have a back up.

i seriously don't think this will be a problem seeing as the jeep drag link adjuster sleeve is smaller and thinner.
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  #199  
Old 04-11-2008
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then why did you ask?
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  #200  
Old 04-11-2008
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MICHIGAN VEHICLE CODE (EXCERPT)
Act 300 of 1949

257.710c Bumpers; height limitations; lift blocks; prohibited modifications; construction of section; applicability; definitions.
Sec. 710c.
Para(4) All steering components shall be geometrically arranged to function as original equipment manufacture. Welded pitman arms, drag links, and tie rods are prohibited.

ok plan B.

if its welded and bolted?

crap i'll figure something else out.
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