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5speedin2.3's SAS Thread

Old Apr 9, 2008
  #176  
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From: Dearborn Michigan
^^ k thanks
 
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Old Apr 10, 2008
  #177  
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NICE!!
this has to be the fastest SAS so far..

thats some beefy stuff from Ruff Stuff, i may get the shackles from them, i may not... I will be getting diff armor and those axle flip kits from him though.


Originally Posted by 2002FX4
Moving on, I don't want to come acrossed as an a**hole or be a PITA, but rather share all of my thoughts/opinions so they're out there. Of course its ultimately you're choice!
i'm doing them in the back if that makes you happy? lol


Originally Posted by 5speedin2.3
idk what we are going todo with the steering if we do SOA.

more pictures to come in a few min when i get home.
high steer

but i think i saw "budget lift" or something, so that kinda kills that idea
 

Last edited by 99ranger4x4; Apr 10, 2008 at 08:20 PM.
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Old Apr 11, 2008
  #179  
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From: Temperance Mi
Is there a transfercase in it yet?
 
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Old Apr 11, 2008
  #180  
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Originally Posted by deathbypsi
Is there a transfercase in it yet?
lol no, i still have to get a trans, driveshafts and transfer case.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2008
  #181  
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looks good so far.

Mark run more than 3/4" i would at least do 1.25, 1" will work but it will flex. make sure its all at least .25" wall.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2008
  #182  
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thats what i was trying to tell him.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2008
  #183  
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I know 100% that 1" bows. That is what i have now. 1" diameter with .25" wall.

Now my new stuff at 1.5" diameter and .25 wall that wont bow.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2008
  #184  
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Lookin good, wish I lived in Michigan to get help from you guys :(
 
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Old Apr 11, 2008
  #185  
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the tube he is talking about is only 16" long and it goes from the gear box to the tierod on the draglink, he said its 3/16ths thick.

basically its just an extension.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2008
  #187  
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From: Livonia, Mi
Name:  IMG_0681.jpg
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Name:  IMG_0682.jpg
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Size:  131.7 KB
 
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Old Apr 11, 2008
  #188  
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From: Livonia, Mi
looks like im going to need a water pump soon..
 
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Old Apr 11, 2008
  #189  
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lol
 
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Old Apr 11, 2008
  #192  
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From: indy
Originally Posted by 04 EDGE
i need serious opinions on this please
as i told daniel on AIM, i wouldnt run that on the street.

the diameter of tubing has a far greater effect on bending strength than the wall thickness. IMO, 3/4" is too small a diameter. also considerin the ends of the original link only extend 1.5" into the tubing, and you have no plug welds, i dont see enough weld area or penetration into the solid link to make that safe.

build a new link. one LH and one RH TRE, and a piece of 1.25x.250 DOM with welded inserts should be fine, and not too expensive.
 

Last edited by gumby; Apr 11, 2008 at 08:28 PM.
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Old Apr 11, 2008
  #193  
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IMO use a new piece of DOM with some rod ends and the correct TREs on each end.

When it comes to steering and the street you really need to do it right, even if that means spending a little extra money. last thing you want to do is have it break and be liable for killing someone and possibly your self.

Take pitman arm off, fill the hole with weld and retaper that to the Jeep end. Let me see if i can find the part numbers. Rustys may sell something like that to you for around 100.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2008
  #195  
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From: indy
puttin a bolt in it will not make it stronger, or prevent that peice of tubing from bending in the middle
 
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Old Apr 11, 2008
  #196  
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check this... it may even be the correct taper on both ends.

http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...egory_Code=ste

if its tapped you both out WAIT until you get the funds to finish it.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2008
  #197  
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Honestly, I've seen a lot worse. I think it'll be OK until you can get something else later on.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2008
  #199  
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From: indy
then why did you ask?
 
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