I can imagine. Just keeping it properly balanced during the install is probably a major strain on the muscles, let alone the 100+ pounds it weighs.

 

show when are you posting the blow by blow how-to?

 

Is the picture of the transfer case flange showing the front or rear output? It looks like you are going to have some crossmember clearance issues?

Also, what are your driveline angles going to look like with the rear output being moved back almost a full 12 inches?

 

That is the rear output next to the fuel tank. No clearance issues since the u-joint is right at the tank x-member and sees only the relatively small amount of movement allowed by the mounts.

The engine/transmission/case angle is stock and the rear axle pinion angle is stock. Only the driveshaft angle is slightly different because it is shorter. That should be fine since the finished length will be similar to that of a regular cab Ranger.

 

Oh ok great! I wasn't sure if you might have to rotate your pinion angle or not depending on how short the driveshaft was going to be.

 

Hey bob this might sound silly, but is there a way to wire your cluster so the 4x4 light comes on when 4wd high and low are engaged? I was thinking just remove the bulb, but if there was a way to make them work it might be cool.

 

Any reason why u didnt use the BW 13-56 from an 94-96 F150 with a 4R70W?

 

why not just swap your cluster out for a 2wd cluster you can find them all over eBay for almost nothing.......

only way i would think would work is if you mounted a switch on the shift lever somehow.....to close a contactor and send power to the light...

 

Becuase i have way too much time into my cluster to just swap for a 2wd cluster.

Its the Sport Trac cluster (white guages) - custom painted..

 

ahhh you could sell it and make another

 

The indicator switch in my stock 13-54 was wired directly to the 2 lights because it was a manual box and didn't use a 4x4 controller. The 4406 manual case has exactly the same switch connector so I'm thinking the 4WD and 4x4 LOW lights will be plug and play. Time will tell.

 

huh....i figured the manual t-case Rangers didn't have the indicator lights......learn something everyday...

 

That would have been OK too but finding one with low miles would have been much more difficult.

 

wish i knew before Bob, the local u pull it has a lot of em. i could have hooked ya up with one for shipping and what it would have cost me ($30). they are simple to rebuild and can take a diesels torque. actually, the only thing u replace is the chain and case gasket (its split) and maybe some bearings.

 

whats painted?

i have a set of 2wd trac gauges with the color removed from the back

 

Very nice work Bob, sucks i will not be up there to see the finished product.

 

These are the numbers that I used. They are both listed for a 2003 F150 w/manual t-case.

F75Z-7277-AA
4L3Z-7479-AA

The bad news is that they don't fit together correctly. The 4L3Z number is a later superceded replacement but the other is the original 2003 F150 number. For some reason, the screw holes in the trim boot don't have matching holes available in the lower boot. Ultimately, I was able to make them fit together but whatever Ford did with the part numbers, it wasn't right.

 

any updates?

 

Looking great Bob. If you haven'y already put the trans in, I have a motorcycle jack I use for putting in mine. Not perfect, but balances a little better than a floor jack.

Keep it up!

 

nice Bob. i think i might be going yer route of manual t-case. my exped. t-case has a 4-low problem. so if i cant get it fixed i might just go the simple manual t-case way. plus then there is no wiring or other electrical parts to worry about

 

Waiting on a few of the last (I hope) bits and pieces to arrive. My shortened/balanced rear drive shaft should be ready to pick up on Monday. In the meantime, I've been working on a bunch of details:

Manual-to-auto conversion:
Lots of bits and pieces to swap over in the steering column because of the shifter and steering lock. I deleted the parts for the brake/shift interlock because I don't like it. Added wires for the O/D cancel switch. Still need to remove the clutch pedal and master cylinder and install the auto trans shift cable. Also need a jumper to replace the clutch interlock switch for the starter.


Instrument cluster:
Minor wiring change to make the V6 tach read the V8 revs. Added the auto trans indicator. Added a wire for the O/D Off cluster light which is already in the cluster. I still need to figure out something for the Theft LED because the polarity is reversed 99 versus 2003.

Revamped crossmember:
The small stock x-member at the front of the fuel tank has a bump-up on the passenger side to clear the stock single exhaust. It won't clear duals very well either above or below the bump, so I knocked out the rivets and broke out the MIG yet again. After I cut a few pie shaped wedges out of it here and there and rewelded it, I was able to more or less straighten it out. Now there is plenty of space above it for the duals. The rivets holding the x-member have been replaced by bolts so it will be easy to remove to access the exhaust if necessary. This is the "after" picture.


Battery/starter harness:
The Explorer main engine and transmission harnesses can be used without any significant mods. The battery/starter harness is a completely separate part and I'm using a combination of pieces from the Ranger and Explorer to make it up.

 

Thanks for the offer, Todd. I already used a floor jack. The REAL fun is bench pressing that 100 pound 4406 transfer case into position. But you already knew that....

 

I remember the day I tried to bench press the 4R70W. Pulling down the 5R55E was fun enough, then I tried the 4R70W - heck, I couldn't even get fully under it! That is when I decided to get the motorcycle jack. Works OK, but I need to make a cradle for the trans. All in due time.

As for your exhaust / cross member issues, that is why I chose the single large route. I had 3.5" with the 302. Now, with the 351W, I will be running 4". I got a heck of a deal ($175) on a complete summit racing 6.0L powerstroke kit. All 304 stainless mandrel bent 4" system with "see through" muffler. Again, in due time for the install!

I have to complete the basement remodeling project 100% before I am "allowed" out in the garage again

 

^ haha nice... get to work!