Eibach 750 lb coils. They are 10" instead of twelve. I think the angle of the shock is the problem especially after I added my bumper my camber is out and one side is about two inches lower. Coils are pretty close to each other

 

I know some people who have plate bumpers have gone as high as 850, but 750 should be fine. Eibach coils shouldn't sag. They are one of the best spring manufacturers out there.

Are you on 5" travel shocks? If so, the 10" coils are correct. However, your statement about the coils being close together sounds like the springs are definitely sagging. I would first try swapping the sides. See if it's just that one spring, then call Eibach.

 

I have a tube prerunner bumper with skids which added weight and my passenger side shock has fully compressed many times on fairly soft hits. I'll give eibach a call soon.

 

I'll get better pics later but here's one

 

Bottoming out too easy is in the shock valving not spring rate but they do look sagged out and too short

 

That's my thing. I'm probably just going to get 12" 800 lb coils. They are both valves the se. Only one binds up the coils. I'm getting them rebuilt and revalved soon

 

Driverside


Passenger side

 

I had a hypertech coil break. I have to buy new 700lb springs or use the 800lb springs that came from the member I bought them from. Down south was helpful and said the 800lbs would only work with a 4.0L and some armour. I have a 4.0 and RCI skids and a front hitch so I'm gonna try them even tho they could be stiff. It's gonna save me $150

 

Oh yea, shock is on quite an angle so that makes sense to me

 

You think an extra 100 lb for each coil would help that or go higher

 

here's some shots of the brackets on an Explorer

 

Im in!

 

WGIBass - raw - PAID - SHIPPED
AdamBlack - powdercoat - PAID - SHIPPED
greenstipper - raw - PAID - SHIPPED
jplambrou - powdercoat - PAID - SHIPPED
Mr.Blewregaurd-powdercoat - PAID - SHIPPED

 

It has come to my attention seeing some of the pics posted that people are not seeing that the openings of the upper brackets and the lower brackets are not the same. The kit comes with four 1/2" wide spacers and four 3/8" wide spacers. The 1/2" ones go to the top, and the 3/8" ones go to the bottom. It looks like people are putting one of each up top and one of each down bottom. This is why there are people who have mentioned that the bottom ones were tight.

I'm working on a good informational sheet and instructions to include with these, but I wanted to post this to clarify.

 

what is the part number for the coilover bumpstops? Also does one need additional bump stop apart from the ones that go on coilover?

 

Energy Suspension Bump Stops 9-9101G - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

These are what I used. The coilover bumps come with the coilovers if I'm correct. I bought my set used but the came with.

 

i'm new here to this forum and Rangers in general. i'm following along very patiently, learning........I still don't have my Ranger, but that's just a matter of time........actually money

seems like i'll be asking to get into the next group buy as I know with my luck I won't be able to get these after I get my truck.......that's just the story of my life. always has been, always will be.

i'll look at the proper procedure and proceed from there, if that's ok ME00Stepside?

thanks for doing this for the few that choose the coil over setup for their rigs.

Bill

 

Payment sent for a set of brackets!

Couple of quick questions for anyone... I've read this entire 69 page thread, along with several others about this swap, but they primarily have dealt with 4x4 trucks. My truck is a 2wd 2001 Sport Trac with a 5.0 swap and will be getting a mild drop of 1-2", and will see almost exclusive street use.

1) Since I'm 2wd, extended rod ends won't be required, right?

2) Being a street truck, I'm thinking about using Strange or QA1 CO's to save a few dollars over the Fox, any opinions?

2) If I'm wanting to go slightly lower than stock, would I be better to use an 8" or 9" spring rather than a 10" (probably going either 650 or 700)? Without having a set of CO's in hand to play with, I can't tell if the lower spring collar can be adjusted enough to drop the truck. I assume that when the springs are installed on the shock you adjust the collar up to the spring so that it's just barely held tight between the upper and lower collars, then any additional tightening would be considered pre-load and would lift the truck until the shock is fully extended or you're out of threads. By the same token, then I would guess that if you left the collar loose below the spring you would be lowering the truck until you ran out of threads in that direction?

I'm not new to cars and trucks by any means, but this will be my first "custom" suspension. I've lifted and lowered numerous vehicles but they were always left in "stock" form and I used much more common methods with them.

 

I wouldn't go with a shorter spring, but if you do, 9" would probably suffice. From all of the setups I've looked at, a 10" spring still requires preload to sit at factory height. Also, you will not need the extended rod ends, so you're already losing a couple of inches there, so even the 9" will probably be loose at your desired ride height. You want to have the lowest possible ride height you would ever set it be the lowest thread on the coilover, if possible, giving you the most adjustment, and the most availble travel. Just make sure to pay attention to your bump stops so that the shock never bottoms out.

I would definitely recommend the Strange units for a street truck. I've used there products quite a few times, and they're a top notch product. If you do, order a pair of the 1 1/2" bearings for the top of the shock, and you won't need spacers at all.

 

Great, thanks for the info. I think I'll go with the Strange S5205 and a 10" spring like you had, especially since Summit is offering $15 in Summit Cash at the moment, so that makes them only $154 each!

Being that I've got the heavier Sport Trac, and the V8 up front, what do you think on the spring rate? QA1 650's are only $38, or the Eibach 650, 700 or 750 are $66.

 

Also, did you run off the shelf valving on the S5205? (ie, is ordering them from Summit a bad idea?)

 

I think it's been recommended you have whoever you are ordering from do custom valving... most people have been ordering through ORW (Off Road Warehouse) or Down South Motorsports.. heard some poor things about ORW's customer service though.. so try Down South first.

 

Yeah, I know that Down South is the go-to place for the Fox shocks, but it doesn't look like they have the Strange shocks that I want to use. The Strange shocks are also user-adjustable by a **** on the body, so I think they'll be okay as-is, especially for a street truck, but I'd like to hear Shawn's opinion since he has first-hand experience with them.

Also, after looking at some weight and axle specs on our trucks from Ford documents, we're actually really close in spring rates, so I think I'm going to opt for the 10" QA1 650 springs. If they're not enough, I'm only out about $75, but I'd rather have them too soft and have to step up to a more expensive, heavier spring, rather than too stiff and have wasted extra money and gotten a rough ride.

 

If you have a v8, I'd say go as high as 750 or 800 for your spring rate. I have 800's going in now as one of my 650's broke (idkhow) and I'm saving some coin. DSMS said 800 might be too much for me unless I had the 4.0L and some front armour. I have RCI skids and the 4.0L so we'll see.

 

I was debating on going a bit higher, but the 5.0 is very close in weight to the 4.0 from what I've seen, and I'm also planning to relocate my battery to the back, so that'll further lighten the front. I'm planning to make a few calls tomorrow and do some more investigating of weight differences before I order anything.