I agree with ya, I may step down to a 500 from my 600s on my DBR kit.

As for the various differences I have a few theory's

Things to keep in mind are leverage ratio and what spring ratings actually mean.

A 600lb spring is rated becuse it takes 600lbs of force to compress the spring 1". So you will see a different ride and behavior between a 10" 12" and 18" spring due to the lengths, taller spring will be "stiffer" becuse the percentage the spring is compressed is less. Or 1in is 8% of the length of a 12" and 10% of a 10"

Then leverage plays in. The guys with DBR kits run a much larger arm with a larger stroke this results in a near stock leverage ratio (shock stroke to travel)

If you run longer arms with a stock size coilover your leverage ratio increase thus needing more spring rate to compensate.

This is where the difference comes in from various user accounts. There are a ton of other factors that go into this but this is the simple answer.

 

the difference between the 10 and 18'' spring will be the guage of the spring wire for sure but the stiffness will still be the same. if they are different lengths they will still coil bind at the same spot in travel as well.

also morris, the shock valving will not have an effect on the spring causing it to break.

 

I'll agree on this at least with my setup. My 700s where slightly stiff with the stock arms, then when I added btf arms it provided leverage and softened up the front where it was nice. Adding a bumper added enough weight where I had coil bind on hard dips and cornering off road. My new 800 lb springs provide the ability to not bind up but still have a good ride with all the leverage on my coils. No more bind now and feels more planted. But if I had longer shocks and hoops I'd set it back to 600 since the leverage would be less

 

Been looking at this thread for going on a year now or so. Time to change out dead Superlift shocks in the front. Would really like to get rid of the T-bars but the time issue for me is a problem. Another issue is that I don't have a garage where I live. I will soon have another vehicle, so that's no a concern. On a scale of 1-10, with 10 being the hardest, how hard is this project. Mind you, when I had a garage, I have pulled my trans 5r55e and did a partial rebuild, I have installed lockers front and rear and did my Superlift install about 11 yrs ago. Thanks

 

if you can weld its a 4-5 hour job, with your skill level that should be no problem. should be easy enough to complete in a day at the longest.

basics are remove T bars and drop brackets, cut off bump stop mounts, mount brackets, mount coilovers, tack in braces, remove coilovers, finish weld, paint, re install coilovers, install new bump stops and limit straps.

easy enough.

 

Darn, no access to a MIG! :( I also get having to cycle your new susp. set up so you can set up limiting straps. Question, I have bumpstops that are mounted already. They came with the Superlift kit. Do I need to ditch those and mount others? Thanks.

 

You need to trim back the bump stop mounts to be flush with the side of the frame rail, and redrill to mount the stops on the remaining portion, because the coils will not clear the bump stop mount as it is from the factory.

 

with the fox setup, say 650 lb. springs, do you get any more droop than stock? how much better articulation do you get...........I know the main reason for me to want to do this modification is to get rid of the toraion bars and hangers, since I plan on super lifting mine...........I reall do want to read this whole thread,.....and will, but can ya help a guy out?

thanks

 

The travel (droop and bump) must remain the same or you will over extend the stock tripod joint and destroy the stock cv.

 

I do remember reading something on this.....thank you for the response.......in your opinion, what are the best ball joints?

 

Moog problem solvers for ball joints

 

That's what I run and have been happy with them. Only complaint it the lower boot not being very durable.

 

thanks

 

I am new to the forum and iv had my ranger for about 2 years and i love the truck but i would love to stance it out. lowered roughly 4-6in all the way around and i was just wondering what would be the cheapest but reliable

 

So are you asking about coilovers or drop kits?

Cheap and reliable don't exactly go together.

 

How should I go about lowering my stock 93 ranger

 

Do some research on DJM Dream Beams, this thread doesn't apply to your truck.

 

Doing my conversion in the next week or two, want to get as much travel as possible with 5" fox shock and a 10" spring. Will the CV or ball joint bind first? Was thinking of upgrading the UCAs or will the stock CV not allow the extra down travel?

 

At stock length the inner tripod joint of the cv binds around 9" of travel. Make sure to run limit straps and good bumpstops if your going to push the truck

 

X2 on limit straps. And get heavy duty ones. Mine stretched a good bit under load and it was a pain to get them adjusted right because of it.

I looked into upgraded CV half-shafts to get a little more travel but for the price it didn't seem worth it. The ball joints are going to bind next but you could upgrade them next I suppose to a different style.

 

All straps will stretch about an inch it's a good idea to install an adjustable clevis on the strap so you can tighten it as the strap grows.

 

Yes I definitely want to get the adjustable clevis for this reason. About what size strap should I get for a non-super lifted application?

 

8" fits well at stock height, I use 10" on
Lifted trucks.

 

Any one got a link for these? Im not finding it.
Fox "Long Rod Ends" are part #213-01-138-A (Series 2.0 w/ 5/8" Shaft) = Qty of 2.

 

I couldn't actually find them on a website but when I called DSMS to place my order, they were able to add them and even install for free.