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Project Logs For detailed builds specific to the Ford Ranger, one thread per vehicle please.

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  #326  
Old 06-21-2010
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Things I think it would be

#1 - Need more rebound
#2 - Need more PSI
#3 - you hit the bump hard enough that it has not had a chance to come down yet.
#4 - Shock binding
#5 - Leafs binding
#6 - Oil in shocks (assuming they take oil)
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  #327  
Old 06-22-2010
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Things I think it would be


#3 - you hit the bump hard enough that it has not had a chance to come down yet.

Thats what im thinking it maybe, can you slow down the video of it? You would get a better idea of how the shocks travel with a vid then a snapshot.

Last edited by malydeen; 06-22-2010 at 11:42 PM.
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  #328  
Old 06-22-2010
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yeah i've watched it, doesnt really drop much at all. just compresses some on hit and landing. I understand what you guys are talking about, having the up force keeping it from going down. But no matter what its suppose to come doen instantly almost, just needs more rebound and less compression and the bleed screws out. that will get lots more flow and my ride back. i'll more than likely need to throw a couple leafs back in also. taking them out is kind of a no no, takes away from the preload and how the pack works as a whole.
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  #329  
Old 06-23-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by INT3RC3PTOR View Post
just needs more rebound and less compression and the bleed screws out. that will get lots more flow and my ride back.
make sure you dont change it too much, more rebound and less compression is going to make the back end kick you up hard of the lips of jumps... you dont want it too buck hard and send your nose down to much
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  #330  
Old 06-23-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by INT3RC3PTOR View Post
yeah i've watched it, doesnt really drop much at all. just compresses some on hit and landing. I understand what you guys are talking about, having the up force keeping it from going down. But no matter what its suppose to come doen instantly almost, just needs more rebound and less compression and the bleed screws out. that will get lots more flow and my ride back. i'll more than likely need to throw a couple leafs back in also. taking them out is kind of a no no, takes away from the preload and how the pack works as a whole.
I think that you mean less rebound - as in less damping. Also, Geoff recommends removing leafs from his pack if you are not running it on a beamed truck set up for racing. In general, beamed trucks sit higher, and a race truck will have more weight out back with the fuel cell, rear mounted batteries, etc. I am actually thinking about removing one more leaf from my pack (4 total) to make the rear end a bit more compliant. I will run dual spares first however to make sure that the additional weight does accomplish the same thing.
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  #331  
Old 06-23-2010
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I would say spend some time valving the shocks and up the pressure to 200psi
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  #332  
Old 06-23-2010
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It looks killer man!

You definitely need less rebound dampening on the rear shocks.
My supermoto bike had a fully adjustable suspension. I could turn a **** and slow down the rebound dampening so much, that I could compress the rear suspension and it would take several seconds to come back to full droop or neutral height. Too bad you can't just turn a **** and adjust the valve like that.
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  #333  
Old 06-23-2010
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yeah clickers are nice like they have on bikes,quads and snowmobiles. Yeah plan is to first flip my stacks and take out the bleed screws. pump them up to 175-200 rock that for a bit and if thats pretty close I may later on experiment with some flutter stacks and get them to react to terrain even better. I'm going to have to buy a regulator soon and get a tank so i can rip them apart often and gas them up in the garage. lookn at $160 or so plus a tank, so not too bad. My work uses nitrogen all day long for our cure boxes. might have to ask if I can take some hits off them when I need to fill shocks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Quasi242 View Post
I think that you mean less rebound - as in less damping. Also, Geoff recommends removing leafs from his pack if you are not running it on a beamed truck set up for racing. In general, beamed trucks sit higher, and a race truck will have more weight out back with the fuel cell, rear mounted batteries, etc. I am actually thinking about removing one more leaf from my pack (4 total) to make the rear end a bit more compliant. I will run dual spares first however to make sure that the additional weight does accomplish the same thing.
yeah tahts what i meant, to get it to droop quicker after hits etc. Good to know taking out a few are ok, I can maybe see on some of the smaller packs you wouldnt want to. but the race packs are huge
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Originally Posted by ChopTechFab View Post
I would say spend some time valving the shocks and up the pressure to 200psi
yeah i'm exited to see what I can do after some work. and yeah i think i'll go up to 200 after I get the comp and rebound ajusted. should make a world of different. it felt pretty good out there working halfass,so it should be butter when dialed better.
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  #334  
Old 07-08-2010
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How goes getting the fenders and bed sides?
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  #335  
Old 07-08-2010
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any updates?
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  #336  
Old 07-10-2010
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any updates?
x2
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  #337  
Old 07-11-2010
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shocks are being pulled off the truck tuesday, and being ripped apart. Need to bring the shims into work and measure them and be sure what size packs I have. Then I'll see what I need to order if anything. Then remove all the bleed screws put them together, charge them up and find some local hill/jumps to bang on for testing. I hopefully can buy the bedsides by the end of the week so i can start driving it on the streets. not driving it is killn me

work has been slow on it because of lack of time, Mazda needing work and just extra money
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  #338  
Old 07-16-2010
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This may be a stupid question, but with everything you've bought for this long travel, about how much have you spent?
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  #339  
Old 07-16-2010
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If you need any help when you get the shocks apart just ask. I've had mine apart so many times I can probably do a revalve with my eyes closed.

And you are on the right track with the valving.

Keep it up! Trucks looking good!
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  #340  
Old 07-16-2010
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thanks Jason! I will for sure keep that in mind if I have questions etc. I've tried to read up on it alot and it seems rather simple if you are careful enough. The process seems straight forward.
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  #341  
Old 08-04-2010
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u get the shox figured out?
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  #342  
Old 08-05-2010
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bedsides?
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  #343  
Old 08-06-2010
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Money spent,guessing 8k+ including wheels, tires,shocks, tube etc.

Bedsides are on order,and the shocks I still have to do. I've just been too busy lately to get anything done. But when the bedsides get here I'll get them on and some tube for bumpers right away. Cause I want to drive it bad,plus I'm sick of all my money just sitting in the garage
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  #344  
Old 08-06-2010
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lol its going to be such a sick truck when your done
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  #345  
Old 08-06-2010
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Someone has been busy since i been gone
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  #346  
Old 08-07-2010
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True scott,but I want yer damn 7.3 02' hah. I'm hoping to find a good one for a daily
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  #347  
Old 08-26-2010
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not much of an update but I finally got my bedsides. Should have a better update by saturday night or sunday after I work on bumpers and bedside mounting. I have tomorrow off so I can go get some steel and gas and do work

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  #348  
Old 08-26-2010
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Woo for progress
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  #349  
Old 08-26-2010
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havent looked in here for a while, have you got your front glass done yet?
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  #350  
Old 08-26-2010
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not yet,but it wont take much. I do have the bodylift out from under the cab as well. sit'n low and wide looks sick
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