Things I think it would be

#1 - Need more rebound
#2 - Need more PSI
#3 - you hit the bump hard enough that it has not had a chance to come down yet.
#4 - Shock binding
#5 - Leafs binding
#6 - Oil in shocks (assuming they take oil)

 

Thats what im thinking it maybe, can you slow down the video of it? You would get a better idea of how the shocks travel with a vid then a snapshot.

 

yeah i've watched it, doesnt really drop much at all. just compresses some on hit and landing. I understand what you guys are talking about, having the up force keeping it from going down. But no matter what its suppose to come doen instantly almost, just needs more rebound and less compression and the bleed screws out. that will get lots more flow and my ride back. i'll more than likely need to throw a couple leafs back in also. taking them out is kind of a no no, takes away from the preload and how the pack works as a whole.

 

make sure you dont change it too much, more rebound and less compression is going to make the back end kick you up hard of the lips of jumps... you dont want it too buck hard and send your nose down to much

 

I think that you mean less rebound - as in less damping. Also, Geoff recommends removing leafs from his pack if you are not running it on a beamed truck set up for racing. In general, beamed trucks sit higher, and a race truck will have more weight out back with the fuel cell, rear mounted batteries, etc. I am actually thinking about removing one more leaf from my pack (4 total) to make the rear end a bit more compliant. I will run dual spares first however to make sure that the additional weight does accomplish the same thing.

 

I would say spend some time valving the shocks and up the pressure to 200psi

 

It looks killer man!

You definitely need less rebound dampening on the rear shocks.
My supermoto bike had a fully adjustable suspension. I could turn a **** and slow down the rebound dampening so much, that I could compress the rear suspension and it would take several seconds to come back to full droop or neutral height. Too bad you can't just turn a **** and adjust the valve like that.

 

yeah clickers are nice like they have on bikes,quads and snowmobiles. Yeah plan is to first flip my stacks and take out the bleed screws. pump them up to 175-200 rock that for a bit and if thats pretty close I may later on experiment with some flutter stacks and get them to react to terrain even better. I'm going to have to buy a regulator soon and get a tank so i can rip them apart often and gas them up in the garage. lookn at $160 or so plus a tank, so not too bad. My work uses nitrogen all day long for our cure boxes. might have to ask if I can take some hits off them when I need to fill shocks.

yeah tahts what i meant, to get it to droop quicker after hits etc. Good to know taking out a few are ok, I can maybe see on some of the smaller packs you wouldnt want to. but the race packs are huge
yeah i'm exited to see what I can do after some work. and yeah i think i'll go up to 200 after I get the comp and rebound ajusted. should make a world of different. it felt pretty good out there working halfass,so it should be butter when dialed better.

 

How goes getting the fenders and bed sides?

 

any updates?

 

x2

 

shocks are being pulled off the truck tuesday, and being ripped apart. Need to bring the shims into work and measure them and be sure what size packs I have. Then I'll see what I need to order if anything. Then remove all the bleed screws put them together, charge them up and find some local hill/jumps to bang on for testing. I hopefully can buy the bedsides by the end of the week so i can start driving it on the streets. not driving it is killn me

work has been slow on it because of lack of time, Mazda needing work and just extra money

 

This may be a stupid question, but with everything you've bought for this long travel, about how much have you spent?

 

If you need any help when you get the shocks apart just ask. I've had mine apart so many times I can probably do a revalve with my eyes closed.

And you are on the right track with the valving.

Keep it up! Trucks looking good!

 

thanks Jason! I will for sure keep that in mind if I have questions etc. I've tried to read up on it alot and it seems rather simple if you are careful enough. The process seems straight forward.

 

u get the shox figured out?

 

bedsides?

 

Money spent,guessing 8k+ including wheels, tires,shocks, tube etc.

Bedsides are on order,and the shocks I still have to do. I've just been too busy lately to get anything done. But when the bedsides get here I'll get them on and some tube for bumpers right away. Cause I want to drive it bad,plus I'm sick of all my money just sitting in the garage

 

lol its going to be such a sick truck when your done

 

Someone has been busy since i been gone

 

True scott,but I want yer damn 7.3 02' hah. I'm hoping to find a good one for a daily

 

not much of an update but I finally got my bedsides. Should have a better update by saturday night or sunday after I work on bumpers and bedside mounting. I have tomorrow off so I can go get some steel and gas and do work

 

Woo for progress

 

havent looked in here for a while, have you got your front glass done yet?

 

not yet,but it wont take much. I do have the bodylift out from under the cab as well. sit'n low and wide looks sick