Oh, and remember that I also don't have the extra weight of the transfer case and front axle up there like most of you guys.

 

I think you'll be fine with the 650 for your application. They're actually probably on the stiff side for a street driven truck.

As for the valving, I ran off the shelf with mine, and they were fine. That was with 600 lb springs. I'm actually switching to 500lb when they go back in.

 

+1 I agree with 650lb

 

Hey ME00stepside so question for you. I know at least two people have run into an issue with galvanic corrosion with steel bolts and aluminum spacers. It's no big deal or bad on anyone's part. But is it possible to make the spacers steel? I'm going to try something's but I think steel spacers might be best but I'm not sure cause then you run into the shock eyelets being aluminum. Any thoughts

 

I'm thinking just to use anti-seize on the inside of the spacers. I can also look into having them anodized. Not sure if the coating will keep them from fusing with the steel, but I'll look into it.

 

Typically, applying a strong coating to the metal will help prevent galvanic corrosion if the design calls for a specific type of material.

 

Thought I'd bring if up. Great kit but I know Morris and I both have had this happen. I'm gonna try some anti seize when I put it back together this weekend

 

I'm also going to check the fitment of the 1 1/2" bearings I have to see if they fit the Fox shocks. If they do, I'll try redesigning the lower mount to have a 1 1/2" opening instead of 1 1/4", then spacers won't even be necessary.

However, I think anti seize is a good way to go, even with steel-on-steel, although the zinc coating on the bolts should've helped.

 

I have stainless hardware I'll just clean them up and run anti seize. Should fix my problem

 

ok, this is my current issue.
4 inch lift spindle, CUSTOM SHOCK PURCHASED FROM CAMBURG.
*NOTE: the lift spindle has altered the shock size in my situation, the previous (stock) shock, did not completely droop out, the amount of downtravel was limited by my shock.

The new shock i ordered (correct length, verified by Carlos G, of camburg racing.)
-bilstein 33-185590
-Ext length: 21.63 inches
-collapsed length: 13.66 inches.

Now the coilover listed for the conversion
-Fox 980-02-000-A
-Ext length: 16.42 inches
-Collapsed length: 11.30 inches

Now my question is; Seeing how there is a variating difference in the shock sizes, should i look for something that is comparable to my current shock? because i did believe that stock sizes were adequate until i looked at the numbers.

Any help is appreciated.
Cheers.

 

Start a new thread.. your set-up is completely different than what this thread is intended for.

 

First off, you need to check where those measurements are taken from.

Second, remember that the coilover brackets raise the mounting point from the lower control arm and lower it from the shock tower. In order to determine your correct shock length, you need to subtract approximately 4" from the distance between the points your factory shock attaches to the lower control arm and shock tower.

Third, the coilovers are wider than your current shocks, and you will not be able to let your suspension droop as far as you do with a standard shock, because the upper control arm with contact the springs.

Last, look at the compressed lengths you posted. You're already losing a little up travel with that shock, once you take into account the mounting points. If you get a longer one, you will have even less.

If you have a truck without a Superlift, you're going to have problems if you try to get a longer coilover in there. Period. Changing your spindles alone will not change the size coilovers that will fit. Your range of motion has not changed.

I hope this helps clarify.

 

sorry, did not mean to hijack.

 

yes, this helped clarify quite a bit. thanks for your help. and i should be placing an order soon.

 

You know what I love about tax season?
















I get to order some coil-over brackets for my truck.

 

has anyone tested the brackets off road? interested to hear how they hold up to some wheeling.

 

I have, well built product and holdup really well. Only bent the bolts for the shocks but not the brackets.

 

Okay thanks for the input, sounds like a good idea to keep extra hardware.

 

I've also taken mine offroad.

I dunno when my coil broke but I'm safe to say it has nothing to do with this kits quality.

These kits are built well. If my ranger was ever destroyed I wouldn't hesitate to buy another setup. The ride I had with the 650 coils was nice. The 800 are a little stiff but I'm gonna live with it and see if they break in a little.

 

So who's selling these brackets and wants to take my money?

 

Go to page 68

 

Member since 2011 and don't know how to buy coilover brackets? Smh

 

I think you need to read a little more on who's the seller

 

 

Please stop lol you're turning this thread into an FRF thread.