I'm interested too. I guess we'll see if you still have it when we go to the Dunes

 

really? ive yet to find a thing that come that high, but being 2wd i dont venture places i shouldnt be.

 

haha true! campground install lol

 

I'd love to ship it to Matt or someone else too, but its just might be easier if I can bring it to the dunes or something. I should probably clean it up and get some primer on it too.

 

id just bedline over whatevers on it lol

 

fair enough! just suffocate the rust in bedliner

 

not too much work done on it in the last few weeks. lots of work, much needed up north vacations to fish and shoot and Big Dirty breaking down on me. but I should be ordering all my parts needed for the fuel cell this week so I can get that in and start getting the truck back to rolling/running condition and then start the repainting and whatnot. I really want to rebuild the motor, but I'm not sure I'll have time. I can brining it out and beat on it how it is, but I'll most def. drive me nuts that it sounds like chit..and other people will be like man that thing sounds like ****..not knowing I dont care I'm here to beat the **** out of it. we'll see what the next couple months brings I guess

 

if you were closer id opt to help ya out! its just that 16 hour drive that blows...

 

yeah I hear ya. The dunes will be so fun this year, can't wait. that's a much more worth it drive

 

any updates on the beast?

 

little bit. still waiting on my fuel system parts to get here, and this damn weather to get better. I got the cab back all cleaned of useless wires,hoses etc. So now all I will have is one brake line,some wires for lights and the steel braided fuel line. The new system will start right about where the stock fuel filter was. Also started getting rid of all the extra stuff in the engine bay. Got the 4x4 abs module out and the rest of the A/C crap. Just need to run the rear brake line straight to the master cyl. and figure out the lines for the front,using a 2 into 1 block of some sort. I need to pick up a new compressor and get my bender at my buddys place and start adding a few crossmembers,a t-case skid and a light bar on the front bumper. I got all kinds of crap to do,and no nice weather in sight..getting sick of running the torpedo heater everytime I want to work on it.

But I'm in the middle of getting a house..and it has a nice garage setup!

 

sweet! your busier then me, ive got no garage space and no warm weather!

 

As far as the two for one brake line block. Look up a proportioning valve. most rangers have a simple on on the top of the rear end that takes one input and splits it into two outputs for left and right rear brakes.

 

yeah exactly. cause I had those like 20 lines between the brakes,abs module and the master. so then it can be a nice clean 2 into one up front and same for the rear.

 

that'll be nice to have. i think if i swap my motor one day ill strip the abs and such and go to the old school autometer gauges and a basic harness. must be nice, i hate the wiring in my truck from factory.

 

yeah its kinda fun just gutting all the crap you dont need anymore

 

I don't know if you wanna run a basic valve though. since the fronts do most of your stopping. I'd get a bit more advanced or run them strait from the master cylinder. how many valves come out of the cylinder?

 

just two, does a non abs ranger master have more? otherwise yeah i'll have to pick up a better PV through summit etc.

 

yes there are two, and pv for the rear is all you need to reduce the fluid and keep it up front. and explorer master would work good too.

run this up front
http://recstuff.com/trailer-brake-line-splitter.aspx

and hook it to each front wheel. then have a valve on the rear lines to limit the fluid and keep pressure up front. also is you want more pedal feel, you can unbolt the master and loosen the push rod bolt, which will make your pedal grab further up the stroke.

 

Napa or any parts store will sell a T for the line. I have the OBS (250-350) Master Cylinder on my booster then I run the front and split it with a T and go to each wheel. I take the rear to a proportioning valve to dial down the pressure. (you need to do this for disc brake rear axles, drum brakes wont need it but they need a residual valve to hold 10psi in the line) Rangers do the proportioning in the ABS unit. One the rear axle is just a basic T.

 

here is an old pic of how mine was setup

 

Did you buy an autometer fuel gauge? If so let me know how you wired it up. lol

thats one thing that has been a mystery to me on mine.

 

yeah I'll have to pick both up. umm not sure yet don't have mine yet,but i got a 0-90 gm sender in my cell so i got a gm gauge. As far as i know the gauge has three wires,. one power, one to the sender,and ground. when i get going on it I'll let you know

 

Oh ok, All the electrical schematics I have keep talking about a Yellow White wire and I have tapped every yellow white wire possible for the sender with no luck at all. I keep running it out of fuel. haha

 

lol..shoulda got a clear cell

oh you're still running the stock ranger pump/sender adapted to the cell right? I forgot about that,now I see why you were having to deal with finding wires etc hah