No. There isn't really any slop since there isn't any joints in the shaft. When I change the shaft to one with joints though I'll have to run a pillow block.

 

Got the brakes bled. Drove the truck around the block, I was pretty nervous but I made it home no problems lol. Steers kinda funny, not sure if its a bad alignment or what but I'll have to work on that. It doesn't wanna go back to center after turning. Also have a couple of strange noises that I'm not sure what they are yet. I'll grab some pictures of it out of the garage tomorrow when its light out.

 

The steering not wanting to return to center is your caster angle, shorten your upper arms to bring the axle back. Top bj behind the lower bj.

 

Any idea what kinda number I should be looking for there? Its sitting at 4 degrees positive right now. How sensitive is it? Will 1 degree make a noticeable difference? I don't wanna over due it. I could be in for some trial and error lol.


Also got a good bit of lean to the drivers side.

 

big hammer should fix it

 

the lean is going to be from the gas tank and battery being on that side..you can adjust the coil a little higher on that side for that...

 

I think you want 6-7%

 

Yeah I think about +6 or +7

 

Thanks I'll look into it. Probably won't do anything today, mainly cause I'm tired of working on it right now lol.

 

Flex pics here.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ml#post1522096

 

No you want 4-5... Any more its too much any less it wont return to center.

Also if that steering shaft is bound in any way it will not return to center. Tow will also mess with this. Did you replace the rubber bushings in the arms like i mentioned before?

 

My caster is at 4* so I think I'll look elsewhere for problems before I adjust it. I sorta measured the toe as much as I can with what I have and it looks like I have a slight amount of toe out. I'll measure better tomorrow and see if I can get it to toe in like it should be. I might need to get it to a shop if I cant get it to improve.

No I didn't replace the bushings. Are these the ones I need?
RE3704 - LARGE S/R BUSHING & SLEEVES - Rubicon Express
http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Builde...Pb&part=RE3784

 

yup those are it! they tend to wear out when the arms jump from one truck to another... or when you change the suspension setup, just what happens with rubber bushings...

try to set it as close to 0 as possible. the toe that is. maybe a hint of toe in.

 

that was me that posted, just too lazy to log in to my own account.

I'm pretty sure mine's around 6 or 7.. atleast it was supposed to be when we welded everything on.. works great for me. Never had an alignment, drove fine, tires didn't wear in any weird pattern.

 

I think I may have figured out a couple of the problems. First off the strange bump noises I was getting were from the shocks. My bilsteins didn't have the metal sleeves in the eyelets so when I'd hit a bump they would move a bit around the bolt. I added the metal sleeves and no more strange sounds.

As for the steering problem I made a bad decision when I put the brackets for the lower control arms on. I butted them up against the back corner of the tranny crossmember to give me an extra point to weld to. If you've ever paid any attention to that crossmember you'd notice the drivers side is 1" farther forward than the passenger side. I knew this when I put them on and really I knew better but I did it anyway. So I have 1 control arm at a slightly higher angle than the other. This is throwing my caster off. I have 3* on the drivers side and 4* on the passenger side.......not good. I could adjust the upper arms to compensate but it will still be off when the suspension cycles. I'm going to cut the drivers side bracket off and move it back an inch. Hopefully this will help with some of the walking im getting from the steering.

 

ewww that would do it my friend...

 

actually the 3 degrees on one side and 4 on the other probably isnt effecting it much it is more the longer length arm causing the axle to not be straight. Can you adjust the length of the arms?

Also dont worry, my mounts are off and inch too, have always been since day one. LOL

 

Oh yeah? lol at least I'm not the only one haha. I've already adjusted the lengths of the arms though to compensate for one bracket being closer to the axle than the other. I did that before I ever drove it.

I'm gonna check out the toe today if I have time. That might be the bigger problem but I'm not sure just yet.

 

Actually Zach you may be right. I just went out and measured and my passenger side arm needs to be 5/16" longer. I'll adjust it today and see if it helps.

 

Can't wait to see it in action Ryan!

 

All of that will play a role in how it drives, I mean I am sure that 1" doesnt help but idk if its worth removing and rewelding on.

I can drive mine with 42s at 70mph and let go of the steering wheel and it will just slowly drift to the right. So I really dont think id go to all that work to remove the mount

Adjust that caster so it is 4-5 rather than 3-4. When you adjust the arm length that will effect caster. Take a picture from the side of the hub when you do it. I want to see it. Or if you already have a picture I want to see it.

As addressed before dont forget TOE.

 

Well I adjusted the the lower arm on the passenger side to where it needs to be. It helped a bit but it didn't solve the problem. I'll get to the caster and toe tomorrow maybe. I'll grab a pic when I do the caster, I don't have one right now.

 

Beard what do you think of my track bar? I know they're supposed to be parallel. Mine is a little off, do you think its off enough to help cause any problems?

 

it looks fine to me. I think it would have worked even better if it was longer. lined up with the pitman arm.

you are just bound to have problems with bump steer that tall without high steer. that is why i ran a sway bar too.

I am going to keep hounding you but lower it! haha

what is the height of the frame back by the LCA mounts?

 

The frame at the LCA mount is 25.5" off the ground. Would the sway bar help that much with the steering? Is that why Evan ran it too? I didn't really wanna put it on but I might have to.

I've been considering moving the coils adjusters higher up on the hoops. It would get me about a 2" drop.