Razorsedge's SAS
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,878
Likes: 5
From: New Mexico
I can deal with the body roll. Its the steering thats hard to handle. Did you have any problems with your steering before you put the sway bar on? Or did it drive straight and you just added it to control the body roll?
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,878
Likes: 5
From: New Mexico
Zach I'm running 23psi in the front tires. I've kept it at that since I've had these tires. I checked the toe today and it was toed in 1/16" so I didn't adjust it. I used this method. Dana 30 and Dana 44 Front Axle Toe Adjustment
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,878
Likes: 5
From: New Mexico
Zach I'm running 23psi in the front tires. I've kept it at that since I've had these tires. I checked the toe today and it was toed in 1/16" so I didn't adjust it. I used this method. Dana 30 and Dana 44 Front Axle Toe Adjustment
put about 35psi in them and try it.
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,878
Likes: 5
From: New Mexico
Yeah I'll try it. Won't hurt to try. I've tacked the sway bar in earlier. Tomorrow hopefully I'll get it welded in and put some more air in the tires and see how it drives then. If that doesn't work I guess Ill have to adjust the caster......which I've been avoiding lol
when you adjust the caster let the passenger side be the tight side, then just adjust the drivers side to fit the hole, it doesnt need to be right. its just support. one side will always be tighter than the other. I have tried 6-8 positive and that was just too much IMO. 4-5 should be perfect.
i dont know how you adjust the caster but I use a 24" crescent wrench to slide on the spring buckets then use that as leverage to twist the axle, you can do that without removing tires and taking the weight off the springs...
i dont know how you adjust the caster but I use a 24" crescent wrench to slide on the spring buckets then use that as leverage to twist the axle, you can do that without removing tires and taking the weight off the springs...
sway bar helped it not be all shaky and all over the place..
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,878
Likes: 5
From: New Mexico
when you adjust the caster let the passenger side be the tight side, then just adjust the drivers side to fit the hole, it doesnt need to be right. its just support. one side will always be tighter than the other. I have tried 6-8 positive and that was just too much IMO. 4-5 should be perfect.
i dont know how you adjust the caster but I use a 24" crescent wrench to slide on the spring buckets then use that as leverage to twist the axle, you can do that without removing tires and taking the weight off the springs...
i dont know how you adjust the caster but I use a 24" crescent wrench to slide on the spring buckets then use that as leverage to twist the axle, you can do that without removing tires and taking the weight off the springs...
Good to hear, maybe it will help my problem.
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,878
Likes: 5
From: New Mexico
I got the sway bar put on today and it helped quite a bit. I'd say it drives 70% better. It still didn't solve the problem but it did help a lot. I guess I'll adjust the caster tomorrow and put some more air in the tires.
Just let me know when you're ready man.
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,878
Likes: 5
From: New Mexico
Aired up the tires, adjusted the caster, and moved the track bar down a tad to make it more parallel. Didn't help though. I'm going to have to check the toe again......
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,878
Likes: 5
From: New Mexico
No, I'll have to get a helper for that. I think I'm going to go ahead and cut the coil adjusters off the posts and move them up 2 inches. Then I'll probably have to redo the track bar mount. Now I just gotta find the time.






