Ooh didnt think about the emissions side off it since we dont have emission laws in michigan

 

As long as you have no DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) the you will pass. Actually, they will be testing it to ranger standards, and since you have no O2 sensors behind the last 2 cats, you can remove them with no issues. Im not trying to persuade you to take them off, Im just saying that it won't throw any codes without them. Actually, I have to pass emissions too, and I have not cats, and for some reason it doesn't throw codes for that. They do look under the truck for the converter, so I tack welded a heat shield from a cat to one of the pipes to fool the inspector and make them think it has one on it. But they just do an OBD2 test like you mentioned, so as long as I have no codes and they think it has cats, then it passes.

 

Bob, I know there is a temp sensor at the front of the intake under the coil packs near the thermostat housing. Which one is that? And where is the second one located at?

 

Other years may be slightly different but here's how my 99 Ex 5.0 is set up:

Engine Coolant Temp Sender (gauge): screws into the intake manifold DS near the #5 injector. Tan connector, single signal wire, case ground.

Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (PCM): screws into the hex t-fitting on the heater pipe PS near the #1 injector. Gray connector, 2-wire (signal and PCM-supplied ground).

 

I used the gauge sensor bung to screw my aftermarket gauge into, It reads hotter than what it should be(sitting at 210-15ish on normal driving) But I checked in the pcm and its at 185-190, So I just use it to watch how much it goes up and down from its norm. I can see it go to about 230 and then the thermostat must open then and it cools back down to that 215 number.

Bob you think thats just because where I have it. Sensor might work better in a coolant tube on the in side right?

 

They will be doing a "tampering" inspection too to make sure I have all emission's crap hooked up so thats probably not an option for me. If i have it, its gonna be installed or connected so i dont have to worry about failing!

 

The mirror under the truck is the "tampering inspection," they do that here too, and I passed with no cats lol. However, if you got them, and can get them all i there, use them. It isn't gonna hurt your power or Fuel Mileage.

 

Sending the truck down to have the exhaust made up!!! Hopefully ill have it back by tonight :)

 

So its at the exhaust shop, the final 2 cats welded on, Y pipe to SI/DO flowmaster 40 series muffler the 2.5in pipes dumped in where the spare tire used to be. The truck isnt done yet or running right. Im running REAL rich. I think i need to swap out the fuel pressure regulator from the explorer in to my truck. That will be done next week hopefully.. It also doesnt help that I have close to 800lbs in my bed right now lol...

The efan is holding up REALLLL well with the ranger radiator. I havent had any cooling problems what so ever!! Ill keep an eye on the temp gauge anyway! Just gotta work out the kinks and hopefully ill have it perfect by the end of next week!

 

Well they have to keep the truck over night haha... I bet with my request to keep all cats, y pipe, flow master muffler, its taking some time and effort to put it together in that tight spot under the truck lol

 

Excited to see this all done man!

 

Here's a little FYI about the fuel pressures between the 3.0 Flex Fuel motor and the 5.0 motor.....

According to the Ford Manual:

3.0 Flex Fuel(engine running):55+/-8psi
Explorer(engine running):65+/-8psi

 

Are those pressure at idle?

 

Im not sure... This is what it says

Fuel Pressure-3.0L V6 Flex Fuel engine. Engine running/Key on engine off

 

1999~2001 Explorer:
65 +/- 8 PSI

1998~2000 Ranger 3.0L Flex-fuel:
55 +/-8 PSI

1998~2000 Ranger (exc. Flex-fuel):
64 +/-8 PSI

2001~2009 Ranger (all):
60~65 PSI

 

What about older rangers (95) and explorers (96)

 

98-back EFI Explorers and 97-back EFI Rangers use a return-fuel system with a vacuum contolled regulator at the fuel rail. These systems typically run around 30 PSI at idle and 40~45 PSI at WOT (zero vacuum to the regulator).

 

Im goin to swap out regulators anyway because im running really rich and i can smell it pretty good lol

 

Yes, and if you don't use the return (or gets kinked like in my recent situation) it will run run rich and have poor idle qualities. But the funny thing is, according to the mileage computer, I was getting better mileage with the return pinched? Looks to me like it would've been worse since it was forcing extra fuel into the engine...

There's a fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail. Check you pressure with a gauge and see if it's too high.

 

right so when all the swap info things tell you about needing the explorer FPR its mainly for the older motors/trucks with the FRL.

Chris IDK if its your fpr but go ahead and see what happens, I guess cant hurt

 

Can you get this gauge at an auto parts store??

 

Im gonna swap it out anyway.. Maybe im just smelling it pretty badly because i was pretty much running open headers? I had no back pressure it seemed like.. and 800 pounds in the bed lol I seriously need to take that motor out the back of my truck lol

 

yeah you can rent them at autozone etc I believe. but most are not that expensive either.

 

The numbers that I posted from the Shop Manuals say that it should be running lean (~55 PSI being supplied to an engine calibrated for 65 PSI). You should set it up to run the Explorer pressure. Swapping the FPR should do it assuming that it fits.

 

Yea Ill take care of this regulator as soon as I get it in the mail sometime next week. That will be my big project next week thats for sure!