My 5.0L swap attempt :)
ok wiring is done and all loomed up nice and tidy like. the fan runs strong and keeps my truck pretty dang cool at idle. im very happy so far how it turned out. one thing ill probably change on the fan wiring is run it to a switched 12v sorce instead of straight to my battery. i will turn the truck off, then the fan will shut off after a minute then it will turn back on for about 30 seconds then shut off. kept doing that for about 2-3 mins after shut down. the probe for the controller is probably reading the heat from the bay or something. i have sound clips of the exhaust so ill try to load them up in the morning.
No biggie, just letting you know that i dont half *** my work, just 3/4 *** my work :-D Ive spent too much money on this swap haha anyway here's a clip of the exhaust.. Im only running 2 cats and no muffler dumped right near the Transfer Case or back of the transmission... Enjoy
Know of any good switched source i can tap in to?
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 483
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From: Apison, TN
On mine, I added a wire from my Data Center in the console and used it to turn on the fan controller. It only has power in the "on" position, not in acc. so it will only run when the truck is running. You should be able to use a test light and find a wire coming from the ignition switch that will work for you. It doesn't draw hardly any amps, so you shouldn't hurt anything by drawing power from it.
The "hot in run" fuses are powered from the ignition switch and arranged in a vertical group in the dash fuse box - 2, 6, 10, 14. They mostly serve wiring in the interior but there are a couple that go out into the engine compartment.
I would probably try the violet w/orange stripe that feeds the reverse light circuit provided that the reverse lamps are still stock and there won't be any more draw than the fan controller added. The VT/OR should be in the wire bundle that goes from the firewall bulkhead connectors to the 42-pin engine harness plug. The VT/OR is protected by dash fuse #6 (15A).
I would probably try the violet w/orange stripe that feeds the reverse light circuit provided that the reverse lamps are still stock and there won't be any more draw than the fan controller added. The VT/OR should be in the wire bundle that goes from the firewall bulkhead connectors to the 42-pin engine harness plug. The VT/OR is protected by dash fuse #6 (15A).
Here's the link:
http://static.summitracing.com/globa.../hfm-zfswa.pdf
How would I go about hooking it up to a switched 12v source based off that link? Thanks
http://static.summitracing.com/globa.../hfm-zfswa.pdf
How would I go about hooking it up to a switched 12v source based off that link? Thanks
Here's the link:
http://static.summitracing.com/globa.../hfm-zfswa.pdf
How would I go about hooking it up to a switched 12v source based off that link? Thanks
http://static.summitracing.com/globa.../hfm-zfswa.pdf
How would I go about hooking it up to a switched 12v source based off that link? Thanks
That will allow you to shut off the power going to the relay, not allowing power to the fan no matter what the Temp Switch says.
By adding the switch as the diagram states you control the power to the Temp Switch, OK but I like to have full control of the power.
The added manual switch will allow you to shut down the fan if you are doing a water crossing and you could leave it on if it is a HOT day, just to let things cool off.
If you intend to run an aluminum radiator, consider letting the truck cool off with the fan running off/on ; it will help the aluminum in the radiator.
Last edited by Scrambler82; Sep 12, 2009 at 06:14 AM.
Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 483
Likes: 0
From: Apison, TN
DO NOT power the relay from the little 15A fuse Boib was talking about. It won't work. You can use that to turn the relay on, because that requires almost no power. But, don't try to power the fan from that.
Basically, you don't want post 86 on the relay to be hot all the time. The fan will run continuously until the temp sender says its cool enough to turn off. Post 86 on the relay is what you want to power with the keyed power from the harness like Bob mentioned. If you want to be able to turn the fan off at any given moment (for a "water crossing"; which I never see happening) then you just need to add another switch (manually controlled in the cab) in between the truck's switched on power and the 86 post. This will allow you to kill the power from the truck going to the relay, therefore turning the relay and fan off.
Hope that makes sense. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
Basically, you don't want post 86 on the relay to be hot all the time. The fan will run continuously until the temp sender says its cool enough to turn off. Post 86 on the relay is what you want to power with the keyed power from the harness like Bob mentioned. If you want to be able to turn the fan off at any given moment (for a "water crossing"; which I never see happening) then you just need to add another switch (manually controlled in the cab) in between the truck's switched on power and the 86 post. This will allow you to kill the power from the truck going to the relay, therefore turning the relay and fan off.
Hope that makes sense. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
Last edited by 05prerunner; Sep 12, 2009 at 08:35 AM.
DO NOT power the relay from the little 15A fuse Boib was talking about. It won't work. You can use that to turn the relay on, because that requires almost no power. But, don't try to power the fan from that.
Basically, you don't want post 86 on the relay to be hot all the time. The fan will run continuously until the temp sender says its cool enough to turn off. Post 86 on the relay is what you want to power with the keyed power from the harness like Bob mentioned. If you want to be able to turn the fan off at any given moment (for a "water crossing"; which I never see happening) then you just need to add another switch (manually controlled in the cab) in between the truck's switched on power and the 86 post. This will allow you to kill the power from the truck going to the relay, therefore turning the relay and fan off.
Hope that makes sense. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
Basically, you don't want post 86 on the relay to be hot all the time. The fan will run continuously until the temp sender says its cool enough to turn off. Post 86 on the relay is what you want to power with the keyed power from the harness like Bob mentioned. If you want to be able to turn the fan off at any given moment (for a "water crossing"; which I never see happening) then you just need to add another switch (manually controlled in the cab) in between the truck's switched on power and the 86 post. This will allow you to kill the power from the truck going to the relay, therefore turning the relay and fan off.
Hope that makes sense. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
DO NOT power the relay from the little 15A fuse Boib was talking about. It won't work. You can use that to turn the relay on, because that requires almost no power. But, don't try to power the fan from that.
Basically, you don't want post 86 on the relay to be hot all the time. The fan will run continuously until the temp sender says its cool enough to turn off. Post 86 on the relay is what you want to power with the keyed power from the harness like Bob mentioned. If you want to be able to turn the fan off at any given moment (for a "water crossing"; which I never see happening) then you just need to add another switch (manually controlled in the cab) in between the truck's switched on power and the 86 post. This will allow you to kill the power from the truck going to the relay, therefore turning the relay and fan off.
Hope that makes sense. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
Basically, you don't want post 86 on the relay to be hot all the time. The fan will run continuously until the temp sender says its cool enough to turn off. Post 86 on the relay is what you want to power with the keyed power from the harness like Bob mentioned. If you want to be able to turn the fan off at any given moment (for a "water crossing"; which I never see happening) then you just need to add another switch (manually controlled in the cab) in between the truck's switched on power and the 86 post. This will allow you to kill the power from the truck going to the relay, therefore turning the relay and fan off.
Hope that makes sense. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
sounds nice! I gota get rid of some cats haha. yeah I have mine into the ignition wire. SO it will only be on when the key is turned over. My switch runs power off the battery but the relay is turned on and off via the ignition. So like Tyler was getting at mine is only getting the power from the main power wires in the fan harness.
word, looks good. Ill go ahead and do this and see how it works!!! If this setup works then ill go ahead and keep it this way for a while :) Thanks
Last edited by MudSlanger; Sep 12, 2009 at 11:47 PM.
Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 483
Likes: 0
From: Apison, TN
A mech is 100% possible. The explorers use a mech stock, and it will go right on there with no issues if you use the explorer fan shroud. An electric just adds some efficiency. But really, the mech will pull more CFM during loaded situations when an electric fan may not be enough.
one thing an electric is nice for(if you have it so you can man. switch it off at anytime) is water crossings or deep water/mud situations. If you can turn it off you wont get as much water and mud thrown about your engine bay,where as a mechanical will sit and toss it around. I had a nasty sistuation like that with my 3.0 before I went to an e-fan.
other than that a mech. fan would be a much safer choice over an electric as far as reliability.
other than that a mech. fan would be a much safer choice over an electric as far as reliability.
