The fulcrum bearings were bad. They rolled smoothly, but had several thousandths worth of play in them. After I put them on I got valve train clicking... so I took them back off.

 

Got some more work done.. Installed the last Power Steering hose up and filled the Power Steering up with fluid. Put Oil in the motor. Wiped some of the motor down(GOT LOTS MORE CLEANING TO DO). Attempted to install the Explorer Air Box tray but i have to cut it and move it over about 2 inches, drill new holes and mount it. Ill get it to work but it requires some modification. Also wrapped up most of the battery harness. The Ground cables are all in place.. Pretty much all i need now is to get the power wires all situated and extend the starter wire. Parts are still on order: Taraus Efan/Controller, Adapter for transmission and EE intake. Hoping by the end of this week or by this weekend Ill have it started :) Here are some more pics of the motor:







Still lots more cleaning to do to it... I need to put a hose to the Firewall for sure!!!

 

looks good so far but man that is dirty! clean that stuff up!

 

Oh i know i know, This is a result of getting my DD back on its feet. I will for sure give this engine bay a bath once the final shots are taken. DONT WORRY haha :-P

 

looks great.

 

Awesome progress man! Keep it up and get this thing Running!

By the way, you will want to swap in an explorer radiator. They are two core, your stock one is a single core and probably won't do the job.

 

+1

Hah whats funny is your engine bay looks indentical to what mine was/is. Just dirty as hell witha ok looking 5.0 in it. Now mine has a pretty good looking 5.0 in a still trashed bay.


here was mine the day I got it started i think

 

I want a pic of your bay RIGHT now as it sits... You looked like you needed a ton more work on your motor in that pic lol

As for the Radiator... Ill will swap one but i dont tow anything so I think i should be good for right now. Ill keep my eyes peeled on an Explorer radiator in the mean time.

 

why do you say that? everything thing is hooked up. It just doesnt have the a/c lines hooked up. Towing or not though the engine gets alot hotter than than the little 3.0 plus you are going to be running an e-fan.

here are some of mine I just took. Still has sand all over from the dunes. I also noticed My radiator popped of its mounts on top. pulled the bushing away from the part the bolt goes through, time to get some washers.


the e-fan. still want to make a shroud for to cover the little side thats not covered, but it works fine for now.

 

I said that maybe cause you had a bunch of wires not covered up, idk lol The finished product always looks the hottest... Oh and you not havin the AC hose hooked up just looks like something was missing lol.. Yor bay is hot and I also noticed you relocated your brake booster vacuum line to the back of the IM.. I was wondering why you had it hooked up to the front for a second. Good work on your install.

 

yeah that and the ground was just a temp install type of thing, yeah non of the wires were wrapped up yet in that old pic. I wana remove all the rest of the AC stuff and get the a/c pump delete pulley too.

 

yea you should.. Weight reduction. Just hope you never move to AZ

 

hah well you know it gets hot as **** here too.. and humid for that matter. I've gotten used to it. Been years since I've had it, but when I get in a car that has it I abuse the **** out of it like a little kid.

up here, I just NEED my heat haha

 

Nice swap for sure. Didn't read every post, but i caught some of the stuff you were confuzzzled on. HO stands for HIGH OUTPUT.

You also asked questions about some roller rockers. The exploder heads are used to upgrade some mustangs on the cheap, as is the intake. The heads use a style of rocker that is called Pedestal mount. You posted a pic from summit racing of a stud mounted rocker. These are the rockers you need Ford Mustang Racing 1.6 Pedestal Mount Roller Rockers :eBay Motors (item 260465679669 end time Aug-25-09 14:57:27 PDT)

The b cam and the e cam that was recommended to you are OK cams. The e cam is usually for higher rpm engines with a higher rpm power and torque, the b cam is a lower rpm torque and lower rpm power, however it is a old design. You have big tires and have to move a ranger instead of a mustang. What i would do is call Crane Cams, tell them what your plans are, what you plan on revving your motor to and they should be able to recommend you a good cam.

Before you get to deep into your motor install, i would pull it out. I would at LEAST do new head gaskets with head studs and do the rockers you were planning. AT LEAST THAT. I would also look into changing the valve springs as the stock springs will not be able to handle lift of let's say, a e cam w/out running into valve float around 5500rpm.

If you need to know more, just ask. I have a lot of experience with mustang stuff.

BTW, with roller rockers you will need another set of v/c's, also forget the Toreass fan. Toreass fans were good at one time when less people knew about them. Since, JY's and private sellers have jacked up the prices on them. Look for a set of v6 Ford Contour fans. They flow just as much cfm and cover the radiator better, at least for the mustangs they do. Plus, they're dual fans, you KNOW they look cooler.

 

Depending on how much it costs to reprogram that cpu to take care of your pats problem, you can also try this.
Tweecer RT 87-95 Mustang EEC-IV Tuner:eBay Motors (item 320413829176 end time Aug-25-09 1922 PDT)

Last thing youll need for any 5.0 efi equipped engines.

 

hmm interesting

 

The online support for this is amazing. This thing can do everything and more, but costs only 1/4 of any other tuning computers.

Datalogging on it is amazing. Just download the software, it's free. Go through some of the menus.

 

Man you two....none of you were like me? I literally took 3 hours with the simple green, a brush, and a washmit w/ car wash and a hose to mine. Engine out of it, rolled it outside and sprayed her CLEAN!

 

Nice work and keep the pic and info coming, I need all I can get...

Ford Cams are for Cars and high rev'g truck, as Red91Stang said go aftr mkt but for me it was CompCams.
Call their Tech Line, have all of the vehicle info at hand, weight, HP, RPM Range you want to run in, where you want the most torque and what you plan to do with the vehicle.
Not knowing what you intend to do with the vehicle bear with me, I heard you say DD, stick to a short duration, high lift cam and stick to stock rocker arms. Buy a Cam Kit, cam, and pushrods, sometimes rockers too; ask for a kit price including all, that is IF you are going that route ($$$).

Also, IMHO, do not use Head Studs unless they are for the Rockers. If you use head studs to mount the heads and if for some reason you need to remove a head, in the Ranger there will be almost no room (Heater box mod) and you may need to pull the engine or remove a lot more of the accessories.

Again, short duration, high lift = a higher low end torque (good for DD and Trail work).

p.s. as Red Stang stated and if you pull the engine again, consider new head gaskets while the engine is out, ALSO CLEAN THE ENGINE BAY... ha, ha

 

guys, Im probably not going to run aftermarket cams or rockers. I have headers and an intake, i think that should be plenty for right now. I really need this motor running and I dont have time to mod this **** out of this motor. Plus doing the swap put a nice dent in the wallet. I thank you for the info and I have learned a lot from it. This motor is here to stay with the truck, no going back and its staying a 5.0. If and when i decide to rebuild, mod or swap motors then ill consider rockers and cams. But for right now, im gonna keep it simple and do minor bolt on's for right now! Ill probably regear after doing this swap to take some of the stress off the motor having to turn these big *** wheels lol. I got some parts in today, FAN, CONTROLLER and im still waiting on the adapter :( Also my intake comes tomorrow...

 

Whys your truck on a flat bed??

 

I've looked at the Tweecer RT unit numerous times. It seems pretty good once you get the hang of it, but if I decided to get a Tuner I want to try the Quarter Horse. Half the price of the Tweecer with very similar abilities.

 

I had electrical issues resulting in what I thought was a PATS issue. Turns out I overlooked that big plug on the driver side of the engine. My new engine's harness is a little different than my stock harness. It went to the dealer and they found my fault. No biggie. It's a sight I've gotten somewhat used to. lol.

 

You are exactly backwards on the Highlighted stuff. The E cam has less duration but more lift than a B cam. The torque curve is therefore lower. The B cam is more for higher RPM horsepower. An e cam doesn't make power past 5500 anyway, so you don't need to change the valve springs unless you just like to turn your engine way out of its power band for no reason. Also, those were not the correct rocker arms as I had mentioned in another post. And, why would you swap rockers and stay with a 1.6 ratio? You don't really effect anything other than lift (only a very very slight duration change) when you bump to a 1.7 rocker. If you are going to spend the money, might as well go that route. Also, im not 100% sure about the valve covers, when I pulled my Cobra 1.7s back off, I set a stock explorer cover back on (before removing the rollers of course), and they were not hitting. But then again, the engine wasn't running either.

I've been fooling with Small block Fords for a long time. Haha, you'd die to take a ride in my Mustang.

 

Here's a teaser or two:





I can get some pics of it installed uploaded if y'all want to see more.